I'm planning on putting a CompCam in my '86 F-150 EFI 302 in the near future. Going to be installing new cam, lifters, springs, and retainers. What will be the tools necessary to do this? I've got a good set of wrenches and sockets and such. Which specialty tools will I need?

I know I need a torque wrench. What else? I'm new to tearing into a motor, so I apoligize if this sounds dumb.

 

you gonna pull the heads to do the springs and retainers? Either way you will need a spring compression tool that will let you get the retainers in.

If you don't want to pull th heads, then you also need to have a tool for the spark plug hole to inject compressed air (from a compressor) to hold the valve in the head as you take the spring off, put the new one on..

moving the cam is a pain, cause it is slippery, and not easy to get hold of initially. They make a special handle (like bicycle handle) with a bolt that screws into the cam retaining bolt hole.. very nice... you can do this with a long bolt 4-5 inches (and a good large washer to help keep your hand on the bolt)

You will need to borrow a crank balancer puller/installer. Autozone rents for free. Unless you did this engine lately, you should plan on changing the timing chain too whiel you are there. Its is cheap to do when the timing cover is off, and the cam sprocket is off too.

sockets, extensions, air tools if you can get them.

You will have to pull the radiator, and move the AC condensor to get the cam out with the engine still in the car..

so, plan on Oil, antifreeze, and gasket sealer, timing cover gasket, water pump gasket (oh, water pump maybe too, cheap again while its all tore apart).

once you start the car after the change, you have to run for 20 mins to break in the cam/lifters at 2000-2500 rpm.. then let it sit to cool.

Sam

 

Are the heads hard to handle removing/installing? I don't have an air compressor (wish I did).

Thanks for the info.

 

The heads on a 302 are not to bad 390s are heavey like 94 lbs each. put a washers on a stud or on a couple of bolts to hold on to that works good. Make your self 2 line up studs for insalling the heads you should not have any trouable.

 

If you don't have an air compressor you can use the rope trick to hold the valves up while you are working on them. Get 5-6' of cotton clothesline rope and shove at least 4' into the spark plug hole with the piston down. Raise the piston and hold it up with a wrench on the crankshaft. This will hold the valves shut while you change the springs.

-Don't forget to leave enuf rope hanging out so you can remove it.

 

I forgotten about that approach too.. need to do this before you tear apart the front of the engine, as you need to be able to turn the engine to push the rope up against the head and the valves..

Sam

 

Be carefull with the harmonic balancer puller you use. I borrowed one from Auto Zone when I replaced the balancer on my 91 302. Not sure if the cranks are the same. The puller had a cone shaped fitting that is placed against the crank. To make a long story short; I ended up having to tap the first row of threads on the crank due to damage from the incorrect puller tip. Look for a flat tip as opposed to a tapered one.

Ed

 

Cliford.....94 pound FE heads???? Not to be smart, but that is a huge exageration. The heads for an FE aren't but a little heavier than small block heads. The FE intake is a diferent story. It probably weighs 94 pounds. Maybe you have the right weight with the wrong engine. I think 385 series heads are kind of heavy. Grand Marquis....If you have an FE, and you plan on doing the cam swap in the truck.....Unless you turn green and pop out of your chlothes, Make sure that you either recruit a helper for the intake, or a cherry picker. The aluminum FE intake isn't bad, but the cast iron one is very heavy and aquard to handle over the grill.