I need to replace the radius arm bushings on the '65 (twin I-beam) I just purchased. Is it possible to do this without dropping the entire I-beam(s)??

any tips/suggestions are greatly appreciated!!
Thanks

 

I did it this way: (I am writing this from a several year old memory, so double check it please!)
Loosen the radius arm nuts. Don't remove them yet.
Jack the truck up with the wheel off the ground, and support the frame. Removing the wheels helps, but isn't necesssary. I would do it, though.
Remove the brake line, the flexible one (You'll need to bleed the brakes after you are done. Good time to change these front brake lines and the one rear one, too.)
Support the I-beam with a (wheeled) jack, and remove the shock.
Remove the upper coil spring retainer.
Remove the radius arm nut, pay attention to the I-beam possibly shifting.
Lower the I-beam with the jack .
At this point it may be possible to pull the radius arm out of the support bracket to replace the inner bushing. If not, you will need to remove the pivot bolt, and drop the I-beam assembly from the truck.
Assembly is the reverse.
I would look into changing the pivot bushings at the same time, too.

 

Blatherskite,

Did this last summer and if my memory serves me, I believe Banjo and William gave me the initial instructions. William suggested I change the pivot bushings and he was right. You're that far, may as well go the extra mile.

Besides, I couldn't get the radius arm out of the bracket until I removed the pivot bolt and lowered the entire I-beam.

I wouldn't attempt this without taking the wheels off - get rid of the extra weight and free up some work space.

 

Well I hate to come off as a know it all, which I am definately not, I just pulled a 65 front end for mine and there are a few things that seperate them from later years....first, the springs arent retained to the upper frame seat by a clamp as in later years. Also, in later yrs the spring is bolted to the I Beam/Radius rod attach bolt, this is not the case in 65....spring is pretty much sandwiched under load.
To do the radius rod bushings is fairly easy...only need a handful of tools, albeit large sizes...1" thru 1 1/8" will get it done aside from the lug nuts and axle rebound strap the hooks into the frame(this is a 65 only thing although the frame slot is there all thru the 70's.) the strap is 5/8" as I recall...pull that and undo one end of the shock while on the ground(leave shock bolt in until in air and load taken off shock) I pulled the upper nuts myself on shock. with truck on stand in vicinity of cab mount(dont block swing room to undo radius arm nut)pull wheel and remove shock attaching whichever end you prefer. To do that jack axle up a wee bit to take load off of shock assy, remove and lower axle...shouldnt go down as the radius arm nut is preventing it from dropping eccessively. with shock undone and axle being supported by its good looks, push down a bit on axle/drum...just enough to pull spring out...note which end is up and where the end of coil was facing. with spring out, lower spring seat (and if applicable) shims lift off radius arm to I beam bolt leaving you with only the 1 bolt/nut up front and nut/cotter key in rear to undo. I wire brushed the heck out of both and blasted with WD40 to flush dirt away(I did wire brush also before removing rear cotter pin to make its removal easier) after fasteners at both ends removed(WD40 the I Beam bolt before removing...its a fairly tight hole. and crud/rust slows up its removal a tiny bit) With that bolt outknock the hole alignment off as the surfaces are nice and tight also, with them off their mating surfaces, makes man handling the parts easier. The I beam should be able to be pulled the small amout forward to seperate radius arm from I beam...If it doesnt move enough, you will need to loosen the I Beam to frame pivot bolt. Loosening it might give you enough slack to undo it...if not, pull the bolt from the pivot and support the axle on 2X4s or similar and pop the pivot out of frame....a tight fit too. When it gives up the go the axle will drop like a rock...they are about 75-100 lbs per sideaxle and drum. One thing you may try if you wish is before popping the axle pivot from frame, put it back in to radius rod, pop frame end out and remove axle from radius rod being careful to tie up the drum end to keep weight off of brake lines. undo radius rod nuts,washer and rear bushing and remove...note which side is which and which end is up.

I remembered one other little 65 only thing....the steering arm is bolted to lower 2 bolts of spindle...pull drum, remove these 2 bolts 3/4 as I recall. with this undone and all else apart, radius rod can be removed from around steering arm.

This sounds like a lot, but it really goes fast....if you can, get 6 point sockets and breaker bar...the I Beam/Radius rod bolt is around 100 ft lbs I believe.all this grunting and groaning for 2 huge washers and 2 biscuits per side....This is pretty much same procedure for pulling the I Beams, except ya dont have to mess with radius arm at the rear...one thing to look at also, is see if the I Beams are all bent up....looking at the side down lengthwise at axles, should be pretty doggone straight unlike the ones Im replacing in my 65...I would still like the torgue spec for the pivot bolt as its not mentioned in shop manual....dont wanna over tighten it and ruin bushing or anything...


Good Luck and let me know how this works for you...

cs65