check engine light
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New User
Joined: Apr 2000
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check engine light
I own a 97 Explorer XLT V/8 AWD and I am experiencing a "check engine" light...the truck
runs fine...I had this problem right after the
60K service...the mechanic at that time put it
on the scope and found no problem and he reset
something...what did he reset & should I try to
reset now?
P.S. This latest problem happened right after brake service...Is it just coincidence that the check engine warning lights after service?
Thanks,
runs fine...I had this problem right after the
60K service...the mechanic at that time put it
on the scope and found no problem and he reset
something...what did he reset & should I try to
reset now?
P.S. This latest problem happened right after brake service...Is it just coincidence that the check engine warning lights after service?
Thanks,
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 3,172
Likes: 4
check engine light
There is a difference between the Check Engine Light and the Engine Light .The Check Engine light indicates one of the EEC V sensors has failed . The Engine light indicates usually the Engine is low on oil . Im not sure what your mechanic reset ? Since your Explorer is OBD II , you ll have to have a tech with an ODB II scanner check for any fault codes . Unless youre familar with the EEC V related operation , its best to let an ASE Ford Tech have a look at it .
Paul
Paul
New User
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 6
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check engine light
>I am having the same problem
>with my '97 Explorer also
>it rattles and shakes first
>thing in the morning but
>just read a post as
>to how to fix that...what
>kind of gas mileage do
>you get?
Where did you find the info about the the above? It describes my 97 exactly.
>with my '97 Explorer also
>it rattles and shakes first
>thing in the morning but
>just read a post as
>to how to fix that...what
>kind of gas mileage do
>you get?
Where did you find the info about the the above? It describes my 97 exactly.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
check engine light
Replacing the O2 Sensors and a nice Engine (clean) flush will cure this problem... use at least 93 Octane (cringe at the higher price) I guarantee you...you will no longer experience the check engine light problem and you will get kickin gas milage.... I also followed up with a jet performance chip (costs as low as 50 bucks and easy to install) my next move is to get a Borla Cat-back MAF system....
Karol
Mud-N-Fun
Karol
Mud-N-Fun
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2000
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check engine light
When you say "Engine Flush" what exactly are you saying should be performed...a professional injector cleaning?
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Freshman User
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check engine light
A friend of mine recently had a problem like this with his Explorer. When he took it in to be checked, ford told him that the gas cap was loose. I'm not kidding on this, a loose gas cap. They said that it lets in air to what is supposed to be a closed system. He was even told not to leave his engine running when he fills the tank as it may put on the Check Engine light. He found it hard to believe but they didn't replace anything, and charged him 90bucks for the service.
New User
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 6
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check engine light
>When he took it in to be checked, ford told him >that the gas cap was loose. I'm not kidding on
>this, a loose gas cap.
I have a 97 Explorer with an imtermittent check engine light. I have noticed that when I open the gas cap, it doesn't spew pressure like most other vehicles. Is it supposed to hold pressure or is this ok?
>this, a loose gas cap.
I have a 97 Explorer with an imtermittent check engine light. I have noticed that when I open the gas cap, it doesn't spew pressure like most other vehicles. Is it supposed to hold pressure or is this ok?
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 33
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check engine light
My 1992 Check Engine Light came on & I had the engine scanned to find the code. It was the O2 sensor. Had that replaced & the light still comes on. Had the Injectors cleaned & PCV valve replaced & it still came on. Now It would go off after you restart the engine. Also my fuel consumption increased to around 10-11 mpg. SO, I disconnecetd the battery for 10 minutes & started the engine & let it idle for 20 minutes & then drove it normally. (I was told that disconnecting the battery for longer than 5 minutes would clear the computer so when the Engine was restarted, it would have to "re-learn" everything.) The light stayed off till I refueled with 93 octane & a can of injector cleaner/ gas dryer. This morning the light came on while driving for a couple of seconds & then corrected itself & went off. My guess is the gas additive is working at further cleaning the engine. Anyone have any Ideas or comments???? This is so aggravating!!
Senior User
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 113
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check engine light
check the fuel psi it is common that people see an o2 sensor code and just replace the sensor . The engine could be running rich because the fuel psi regulator is bad and setting an o2 sensor code or fouling out the sensor again.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 84
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check engine light
As it was explained to me... the O2 Sensors are very testy and sensitive... most Ford techs will tell you to replace them... I did have mine replaced because of this problem and found that if I kept up on oil changes, the 93 or higher octane fuel (it helps that I have the Jet chip and Cat back) and keep the injectors clean (flush the system once a year and flush the injectors at least twice a year) this problem becomes non existant..also...look into either an KKM or K&N air filter ...those fiber POS's can get plenty dirty fast....
New User
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 10
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From: Florida
check engine light
Run the EEC diagnostics for stored codes.
If you don't know how, see the following site:
http://dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html
Every time your check engine light goes off, a code is stored. If you've already done this, and the the O2 is constantly being flagged as defective, even if new, then look to wiring as a possible fault, either a short, open, or loose connection.
O2 sensors are in the hot exhaust stream, being covered by byproducts during their lifetime. Usually they get rather unresponsive with age, it's not that they don't put out a correct voltage, one that the EEC can accept, but they don't change it fast enough to provide optimal fuel mixture to match your engine's needs. Getting more'n a couple of years off a EGO sensor is basically just ignorant bliss. I know of no chemical that can survive the combustion chamber temperature, coat just the O2 sensor, and clean the stuff off, that stuff itself is 'baked on'.
As an aside, a fuel with an octane rating of 93 says absolutely nothing about how free of contaminants that fuel is. One can have a contaminated tank of 93 octane fuel, just as much as a clean tank of 87 octane.
If you don't know how, see the following site:
http://dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html
Every time your check engine light goes off, a code is stored. If you've already done this, and the the O2 is constantly being flagged as defective, even if new, then look to wiring as a possible fault, either a short, open, or loose connection.
O2 sensors are in the hot exhaust stream, being covered by byproducts during their lifetime. Usually they get rather unresponsive with age, it's not that they don't put out a correct voltage, one that the EEC can accept, but they don't change it fast enough to provide optimal fuel mixture to match your engine's needs. Getting more'n a couple of years off a EGO sensor is basically just ignorant bliss. I know of no chemical that can survive the combustion chamber temperature, coat just the O2 sensor, and clean the stuff off, that stuff itself is 'baked on'.
As an aside, a fuel with an octane rating of 93 says absolutely nothing about how free of contaminants that fuel is. One can have a contaminated tank of 93 octane fuel, just as much as a clean tank of 87 octane.