Upper Intake - tool advice needed
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New User
Joined: May 2003
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From: Rural Catoosa Oklahoma
Upper Intake - tool advice needed
Hello All,
Got a 1995 F150, 5.0 MFI. I am in the process of replacing head gaskets and didn't get too far. I'm sure someone on these boards has run into this slight difficulty. Which is, how the heck do you get to the retaining bolts (left side upper intake) that aren't exposed? I have gotten 4 out of 6 bolts out but stopped there. I can see the bolt in the middle but can't get my 1/2" wrench in their because of the fuel rail. I'm sure the rear bolt was there but due to it being 1AM, it was a little difficult getting light back there. What tool do you recommend? Pretty tight underneath there!! I was thinking a 8 to 10" wrench that's angled at the head, think this would work?
Thanks!
Got a 1995 F150, 5.0 MFI. I am in the process of replacing head gaskets and didn't get too far. I'm sure someone on these boards has run into this slight difficulty. Which is, how the heck do you get to the retaining bolts (left side upper intake) that aren't exposed? I have gotten 4 out of 6 bolts out but stopped there. I can see the bolt in the middle but can't get my 1/2" wrench in their because of the fuel rail. I'm sure the rear bolt was there but due to it being 1AM, it was a little difficult getting light back there. What tool do you recommend? Pretty tight underneath there!! I was thinking a 8 to 10" wrench that's angled at the head, think this would work?
Thanks!
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,555
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From: Concord, NC
You'll need a T40 torx bit, and they make one that is about 6" long especially for the Ford intake manifolds. You don't have to get the specialty tool, but it makes life a lot easier (I don't have the long torx bit either).
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New User
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From: Rural Catoosa Oklahoma
Originally Posted by EPNCSU2006
You'll need a T40 torx bit, and they make one that is about 6" long especially for the Ford intake manifolds. You don't have to get the specialty tool, but it makes life a lot easier (I don't have the long torx bit either).
I expect to have this truck another 9 years so I think I'll take the plunge, spend the extra few bucks and get the specialty tool. That is, if it's a reasonable price for the tool.
Thanks for your help,
Chad
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New User
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From: Rural Catoosa Oklahoma
On the T40 TORX/Specialty Tool
Hi again,
Just wondering, how is this tool used? I mean, do you come in from the side? I don't see going straight down to access the bolt head, I'd have to drill through the dang intake
. Again, light wasn't on my side and it's parked at my dad's house. After I see the tool, it'll probably make sense. I have the factory service manual (on cd) and it doesn't show the tool being used nor do they recommend it.
Just wondering, how is this tool used? I mean, do you come in from the side? I don't see going straight down to access the bolt head, I'd have to drill through the dang intake
. Again, light wasn't on my side and it's parked at my dad's house. After I see the tool, it'll probably make sense. I have the factory service manual (on cd) and it doesn't show the tool being used nor do they recommend it.
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Catskill, NY
If you look closely, there is a rectangular hole in the manifold, between the runners and centered front to back. You can stick the tool through that, although when I first got a 3/8" T40 bit it didnt fit (ended up getting 8" long torx wrench).
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,214
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From: New Jersey
yeah, my torx didn't fit either... the body of the torx that the socket extension fits into was too large a diameter, so I turned it down on a lathe to encourage it to fit.
Then once I had the intake off, I took a large rasp file and filed off the casting flash between the two center runners, so it would be easier in the future. Didn't need to take that much off the socket or the intake, a "hair" off each was just enough.
But then again my intake had an enormous amount of casting flash in that area.
Then once I had the intake off, I took a large rasp file and filed off the casting flash between the two center runners, so it would be easier in the future. Didn't need to take that much off the socket or the intake, a "hair" off each was just enough.
But then again my intake had an enormous amount of casting flash in that area.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,555
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From: Concord, NC
^ frederic, I did the exact same thing, except I filed enough out of the intake manifold to fit the bit, since I don't have access to a lathe (at least not within walking distance of my truck).
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New User
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From: Rural Catoosa Oklahoma
Thanks all!
You have no idea how much I appreciate the info and insight. I didn't notice any rect hole that night but I'm sure I'll see it now that you pointed it out. Gonna take a look at it tonight after work and check it out before heading to the auto parts store tomorrow.
Oh how I wish I had the money to upgrade some parts and get some more power out of it while I'm in there. But next time the dissassembly will go so much quicker after doing it this time.
Again, thanks everyone!
Oh how I wish I had the money to upgrade some parts and get some more power out of it while I'm in there. But next time the dissassembly will go so much quicker after doing it this time.
Again, thanks everyone!
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: New Jersey
ESPN - Yeah, I hear ya. One can do this with an angle grinder too. Easier on a lathe however. I bought the lathe a few years ago on ebay and don't really use it much, but for stuff like this its very handy. Jsut a shame its 8' long and I usually turn down things that are significantly smaller. Takes up so much space!
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New User
Joined: May 2003
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From: Rural Catoosa Oklahoma
I see the opening now
Me again, just took a gander at the upper intake tonight and see what your talking about. I think mine may be a little different. There seems to be plenty of space for a tool to get down there. I say it may be a tad different cause the service manual I have states the PCV hose connects to the backside of the upper intake but on mine, there is nothing there between those 2 round plates or holes, whatever those are for! The PCV must be routed a little differently. Any clues on this difference? Not that it really matters, sometimes they decide to do things a bit different in the middle of putting these trucks together but just curious as to why they may have changed the design! I'll have to consult the Chilton manual and see what they show.
ADD EDIT - Chilton shows the same exact routing, not the same as what I have in my truck. Hmmmm.......................
ADD EDIT - Chilton shows the same exact routing, not the same as what I have in my truck. Hmmmm.......................
Last edited by myngos211; Jul 14, 2004 at 10:15 PM.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Concord, NC
You have the ideal routing. Ford changed the design after problematic failures of the #8 cylinder. The PCV dumps everything in the intake runner for cylinder 8, and so there are numerous problems with burning pistons, valves, etc. in number 8. Newer trucks had the PCV routed to the main vacuum tree.