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Spar Varnish - Revisit

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Old Jul 13, 2004 | 01:26 PM
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Spar Varnish - Revisit

A while ago I came across some intruction for applying spar varnish to an oak bed kit that one of the members submitted. I have searched the archives but can't find it.

Can anyone help?
 
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Old Jul 13, 2004 | 01:49 PM
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I have had good luck applying varnish when I thin the varnish at least 25%. You will have to apply a few extra coats, and you have to keep looking out for runs. Let it dry between each coat and sand it with fine sandpaper before recoating. Coat all six surfaces (ends!). I personally would recommend a exterior tung oil finish for a truck bed if it will be used as a truck bed. The oil is an easily repaired (can be recoated in the truck), low maintence finish, it just isn't a high gloss finish. ...Terry
 
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Old Jul 13, 2004 | 01:54 PM
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Hey Chitown, I know which thread you mean, but I can't find it either. I followed the directions and the bed turned out great. Seven coats of spar varnish sanded between coats. I did not dilute, but it said you could with mineral spirots if desired. Dust was a problem for me though as I kept getting fine sprinkles in the final coat. Get good sand paper. It works much better/longer than cheap stuff. Good luck, John
 
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Old Jul 13, 2004 | 02:14 PM
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What grit sandpaper should I use? I think the directions said to dilute the first coat and then go with straight varnish after that.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2004 | 05:37 PM
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chitown65-

I think the information you are looking for was posted by Jim VA. under a thread "bed wood". If you can't find it under "bed wood" do a search on Jim VA. posts. If that fails I have a hard copy I printed out and can fax it to you. I'm about ready to do this myself so let us know why it turns out.

56FUN
 
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Old Jul 13, 2004 | 05:55 PM
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I found a copy of the instructions on my home computer. Luckily I must have saved it in anticipation of doing the work. I will pick up a badger brush and some thinner tonight or tomorrow. I will try and get the project started this weekend.

Looks like it will take a while to complete with the sanding and drying that has to take place.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2004 | 06:19 PM
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I had someone tell me to use Brass Wool (not steel wool or sandpaper) between coats. I think that I might try that when I refinish my bed this winter.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2004 | 08:36 PM
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Even if the directions say to thin the first coat and not the next ones, I have better results with using thinned varnish on all coats, but you need to apply at least three coats (or more if desired). The brush marks are reduced because the varnish will self-level and it will give you a little more time to spread it. Sand the wood to at least 220 grit before applying the varnish, when 1st coat is dry, sand with 280 grit very lightly (just remove the dust specks and fluzzies), dust and apply the next coat. As you are sanding between coats, knock the dust from the sandpaper often (I slap the paper with my hand or on my jeans), dust often, and feel the surface with your hand to feel for dust specks. Apply a brush-full of varnish with the grain, then brush that area across the grain to work it into the grain, finally, brush gently with the grain to smooth out the brush marks. Check the edges for drips often.
Sorry this got soooo long. ...Terry
 
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Old Jul 13, 2004 | 10:50 PM
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blow it!

After sanding, blow the dust off then wipe with cheese cloth - this gets ALL the dust.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2004 | 10:59 PM
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I have the oak planks waiting for my 56. I'll be doing it soon. I was watching the television program "Trucks" the other day. The guy did a complete replacement on the wood bed and showed step by step on how to do it right. Great show. Wish I would of recorded it. He did not use varnish though, I believe he used Polyurethane and stained the wood first. He did sand between coats and if I recall, did 7 coats. Came out nice.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2004 | 10:20 PM
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I did what imlowr2 just described about three years ago. Used Minwax products. Stain and then OUTDOOR polyurethane top coat. It turned out very nice and has held up to many car washes. It also comes in aerosol and I thought that might have been good for the last coat to avoid the brushmarks. I brushed allcoats onthough. It looks the same as it did day one. But I won't tell you it would hold up well in a work truck bed. It almost certainly would not. I sold that bed last week and am assembling a brand new one right now. Have heard so many good things about Jim's spar technique so I am tempted to try it. Can anyone comment on it's durability and water resistance?
 

Last edited by fatfenders; Jul 14, 2004 at 10:23 PM.
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Old Jul 15, 2004 | 01:37 PM
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I have two hobbys, old cars and trucks and woodworking. After blowing off the bed and letting the dust settle, the best thing to pick up the remaining dust is a tack cloth. A tack cloth is cheese cloth with resin. The cloth is "sticky" and any remaining surface dust will stick to the cloth leaving surface dust free. Tack cloths are inexpensive and found in the paint section of hardware stores. For a working truck, I agree with Overkill. Exterior tung oil soaks into the wood, gives good UV protection, and is easily restored by the application of more tung oil.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2004 | 05:26 PM
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How much maintenance for tung oil? How often before a recoat is advised to keep oak sealed so it won't blacken? I didn't get any black discoloration with polyurethane, but I was paranoid everytime I washed the truck.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2004 | 06:16 PM
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When I wash my truck, I'm careful not to get water in the bed. Also, the truck doesn't get rained on, except maybe briefly by surprise. Finally, I keep a piece of plywood 48" x 6'6" on top of the bed wood to protect it, except when I want to show it off. I don't know yet for sure, but I'm not expecting to have to touch up the finish (Exterior Tung Oil) for many years.

Rob
 
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