Still working on the F250 with a 460 CID engine. Just can't seem to get it to idle, run right. I did overhaul on the card and things changed, but not like I thought they should have. Thinking about getting new/rebuilt carb as I may have screwed the rebuild up or the carb may have an internal leak. Anyhow, what would be a good replacement carb? The one on it now is a Holley 4180.

Thanks, still learning and getting older....

 

What year is the truck and do you have to worry about smog cert ?

 

Opps, guess that would help, huh?!?!?!?

1985, Non-Cat. Yes, have to worry, worry and worry about smog (CA). Not my truck, so need to fix so non-mechanic inclined friend doesn't have to worry about it (to much). Of course, he wants to do this all as cheap as possible and I would like to help him out as much as I could.

 

I just rebuilt the same carb on an 86 f250 with 460.

What are your symptoms? It was very easy to work on, and I'm not not worlds most talented mechanic.

Larry

 

I am not at the point of running out to buy a new carb.....yet. The problem I have is a rough idle, semi hard start (takes several cranks). The history on the truck is: A friends vehicle, so I only have it from time to time to work on. I rebuilt the engine for him and have vowed to get it running properly, no matter what it takes.
The rebuild went well, nothing out of the normal. Have done several engines in the past and had not big problems.
We didn't replace the carb, but I did rebuild it also. Like you said not much to them really. Just not sure if there may be an internal leak, that I am not aware of.
I am going to go through all the vac lines again and see if there is a external vacumn leak that may be effecting the idle, which may be the case. If not I will be looking real hard at the carb. This carb is not the orginal, so I wanted to be sure it had the proper carb on it for this size engine and is ported right. The carb on the truck now must have come off of a vehicle that had an automatic transmission, as the linkage for it is still on the carb.
So guess I am just looking for some confirmation that I am on the right track and not over looking something.

 

it you run the engine at higher RPM does it even out and run better ? This will tell us allot!

 

It runs great at road speeds. If I increase idle to about 1000 rpm's it smooths out quite alot, but there is still a little miss in it.

 

I would have to say VAC Leak for sure... The missing could be a plug wire but if it starts to run better at those RPM look for that leak. Start spraying carb cleaner around the base of the carb and on the lines to see if it effects the idle.

 

Yea, that is where I plan on starting or restarting however you would like to look at it. I KNOW there is a vacuum leak somewhere, but tracking it down has turned into quite the safari hunt. Since I only get to work on this vehicle from time to time, it is a friends and he uses it when I don't have it, I have to remember where I left off each time and hope he hasn't changed anything.
It seems to me that last time I kept picking up a leak around the PCV valve. If I remember correctly the PCV was clicking like crazy too. I don't remember having this problem with any other engine I worked on, so figured I would start there. Have you ever noticed this, or do you think this may be part of if not all of my problems?
I should get a chance to look at it this weekend so I will let you know how it works out.

 

If the PCV is clicking that is the leak!!!!! It is opening and closing on you because of a weak Vac... Good Call !!!

 

Seems for sure a vacuum leak. Is the pcv hose dedicated or does it tee from somewhere else? Also make sure you have all the non-used ports on the carb capped off. Since this carb came off of an auto trans equipped vehicle it may have a vacuum port on the back of it for the auto trans modulator.

T. Roberts
UFD Local 1147

 

As things go, I didn't get a chance to work on the truck this weekend. Started to go out there, but couldn't find my vacuum gauge, so decided it may be time to stop working on the 7000 projects I got going and clean the darned garage up a bit!!! I really used to be better about putting things back after I was done with them, but than I had Dad supervising too!
Anyhow, I'm just about done with that so maybe tonight or tomorrow I can get back to the truck, a couple of cans of carb cleaner, a tall glass of ice tea and some good music. Awww it don't get no better that that!

 

Ok, I am back; with good news and bad.

Vacuum leak fixed......intake manifold gasket.

Still running poorly, so started all the usual checks and everything pointed to the carb, so decided to pull the darn thing and take a look. Lo and Behold, the six screws holding the base plate to the main body were loose. I tried to tighten them, but three of them are stripped. Don't get me wrong, I didn't even gorrilla them, there must have only been one thread holding them in the first place.

Anyhow, now is the big question: What is the best, easiest, cheapest way to repair these. I am not even sure what size the machine screws are that hold the plate on. Was hoping someone here would have a good solid answer to this problem. Do they make a Heli-Coil for this type of screw? Would J B Weld or some other product work in this situation? Looking for a good option that will work and I won't have to worry about it down the road (if I ever get there).


Looking at the rest of the screw holes, they all look like they have some sort of insert in them for threads. Is this normal?

Just to put it here, numbers on the carb are: D9TE-9510-BKA
8346
2810

I still haven't been able to cross these over to anything for sure, but I do believe it is a 4180 model.

 

My carb on F350 1979 w 460 engine is D9TE-9510-BKA and List 8346. Holley site says nothing about it. Is it a Model 4160?? Does it have Power Valve blowout protect? My engine is running rich. Is there an idle adjust on this?? Anyone know more about this carb??