I have my expy in the shop right now and they can't seem the find the problem. It's stuck in 4x4 low. When I try to disengage it, it stays the same. The 4x4 stops working but it stays in low gear. Does anyone have any suggestions. I've already tried backing up, putting it in neutral and turning the switch. That didn't work for me. This is my 5th child. I would appreciate the help.

 

Sounds like a bad shift motor to me.

 

Well the shop wasn't able to repair the problem. They recommended a new transmission. I told them I'll think about it and took the Beach Bum with me, in 4 low. I told them about the shift motor and he didn't seem to think that was the problem. The shift motor seems logical and so does the speed sensors. I haven't lived in Corpus Christi,tx long enough to know where to take it. Is there something I can check to diagnos the problem?? Thanks in advance.

 

Simply pull the motor and rotate the switch. Look at the motor to see if it has turned. Once the motor is off the T-case you will see a stamp in the casting saying 2 HI, 4HI, and 4 LO. See whaer the switch is in relation to the motor. Also check the switch itself. There are numerous threads on this site about faulty switches. It seems that they come packed with Dielectric grease from Ford and they get a little gummed up with age and don't make contact any more. Just pull the bezzel off from around the stereo and remove the switch... then carefully take the switch apart and check tho see if it's nasty inside. If it is then you can get some contact cleaner fron Radio Shack and clean it well and then relube with clean Dielectric grease (also available from Radio Shack) and re assemble.If you have a volt meter you can check to see if you have voltage to the motor. This will tell you if it's the motor or the switch.

 

I pulled the shift motor and observed the position of the t-case. It's in 4lo. While the S/M was off I turned the truck on, put it in neutral and had someone move the switch on the panel to see if the motor would turn and nothing happened. I also checked the switch(disassembled) and seemed very clean. The only thing I didn't check was the voltage. I have a voltmeter at work and will continue later today. One thing I did notice was the clicking I usually hear in the cab I also felt on the motor. Does that mean anything?
Is the t-case suppose to turn easily by hand or is it hard. I wasn't able to turn it by hand, just about a 16th of a turn. I think I'm gaining ground here. I should have more info on the voltage and ohming out the switch later. Thanks for your help.

 

The transfer case may be stubbornly trying to resist being manually shifted out of 4LO because you've been driving it in 4LO on paved surfaces. You can't drive in 4HI or 4LO on pavement, as the transfer case will create a mechanical link between the front and rear differentials and try to rotate all four wheels at the same speed. Problem is that all four wheels almost never want to rotate at the same speed due to wheel speed differences caused by tiny differences in individual tire diameter, changing vehicle direction, etc. On low traction surfaces, it's not an issue, as tires are relatively free to break traction as necessary to accomodate these differences. Not so on pave.

My point is that you may be running into two problems here:

1. Stuck shift motor;

2. Driveline binding and jamming caused by driving in 4LO on pavement.

You may want to consider not driving it (while stuck in 4LO) until the problem is resolved.

P.S. When you were testing movement of the motor, did your assistant also have his / her foot on the brake in addition to shifting the trans in Neutral? Motor won't work unless the brake is applied as well, as the brake light switch is part of the enabling circuit.

 

I never use the 4by on paved roads. It just never came out of 4lo. The 4x4 disengages, just not the 4lo gear. And yes, I had the person press on the brake while switching between options. What do you mean by assisting the motor? Do you mean using something to turn the motor while switching positions? I haven't tried that yet. I can when I check the voltage later today.

 

Sorry. I miss read the tread. You didn't mention assisting the motor.

 

Well I tried manually turning the t-case and got about halfway and then stops. I have 12vdc on 2 leads and 5 volts on 2 leads regardless of what position it's in. I would imagine a trigger voltage to start the motor. Is my problem still near the t-case or am I looking at something electronic now?

 

Man I hate to say it, but these are the "general" procedures for testing your condition. Each test has much more detailed steps to follow. You might try removing fuse 104 if you're stuck in 4wd until you can get to a shop for proper diagnosis.



SYMPTOM:

THE VEHICLE DOES NOT SHIFT BETWEEN 4WD HIGH AND 4WD LOW MODES PROPERLY

Note:
Complete the entire pinpoint test related to the symptom before replacing the GEM.

C1: CHECK THE IGNITION STATES
C2: RETRIEVE THE RECORDED GEM DTCS FROM BOTH CONTINUOUS AND ON-DEMAND SELF-TESTS
C3: CHECK THE 4H INDICATOR
C4: CHECK THE 4L INDICATOR
C5: MONITOR THE MODE SWITCH GEM PID 4WD_SW
C6: CHECK THE MODE SWITCH
C7: CHECK CIRCUIT 780 (DB) FOR OPEN
C8: CHECK CIRCUIT 780 (DB) FOR SHORT TO GROUND
C9: CHECK CIRCUIT 780 (DB) FOR SHORT TO POWER
C10: CHECK CIRCUIT 682 (DB) FOR OPEN
C11: CHECK CIRCUIT 682 (DB) FOR SHORT TO POWER
C12: CHECK BPP SWITCH GEM PID BOO_GEM
C13: CHECK THE VOLTAGE TO THE BPP SWITCH
C14: CHECK THE BPP SWITCH
C15: MONITOR THE CLUTCH INTERLOCK GEM PID CLTCHSW
C16: MONITOR THE DTR SENSOR GEM PID NTRL_SW
C17: CHECK THE GROUND TO THE DIGITAL TRANSMISSION RANGE (DTR) SENSOR — CIRCUIT 57 (BK)
C18: CHECK CIRCUIT 463 (RD/WH) FOR OPEN
C19: CHECK THE DTR SENSOR
C20: MONITOR THE VEHICLE SPEED SIGNAL TO THE GEM— GEM PID VSS
C21: CARRY OUT THE VEHICLE SPEED MESSAGE CENTER SELF-TEST
C22: CHECK CIRCUIT 679 (GY/BK) FOR OPEN BETWEEN PCM C174 AND CJB C243
C23: CHECK THE CJB CIRCUIT BETWEEN THE GEM AND CIRCUIT 679 (GY/BK)
C24: CHECK THE CONTACT PLATE SWITCHES — MONITOR THE GEM PIDS PLATE_A, PLATE_B, PLATE_C AND PLATE_D
C25: CHECK THE GEM PID PLATE_A FOR OPEN
C26: CHECK CIRCUIT 771 (VT/YE) TO THE CONTACT PLATE SWITCH A
C27: CHECK CIRCUIT 771 (VT/YE) FOR SHORT TO GROUND
C28: CHECK CIRCUIT 771 (VT/YE) FOR OPEN
C29: CHECK CIRCUIT 771 (VT/YE) FOR SHORT TO POWER
C30: CHECK CIRCUIT 762 (YE/WH) FOR SHORT TO POWER
C31: CHECK CIRCUIT 762 (YE/WH) FOR OPEN
C32: CHECK THE GEM PID PLATE_B FOR OPEN
C33: CHECK CIRCUIT 770 (WH) TO THE CONTACT PLATE SWITCH B
C34: CHECK CIRCUIT 770 (WH) FOR SHORT TO GROUND
C35: CHECK CIRCUIT 770 (WH) FOR OPEN
C36: CHECK CIRCUIT 770 (WH) FOR SHORT TO POWER
C37: CHECK THE GEM PID PLATE_C FOR OPEN
C38: CHECK CIRCUIT 764 (BN/WH) TO THE CONTACT PLATE SWITCH C
C39: CHECK CIRCUIT 764 (BN/WH) FOR SHORT TO GROUND
C40: CHECK CIRCUIT 764 (BN/WH) FOR OPEN
C41: CHECK CIRCUIT 764 (BN/WH) FOR SHORT TO POWER
C42: CHECK THE GEM PID PLATE_D FOR OPEN
C43: CHECK CIRCUIT 763 (OG/WH) TO THE CONTACT PLATE SWITCH D
C44: CHECK CIRCUIT 763 (OG/WH) FOR SHORT TO GROUND
C45: CHECK CIRCUIT 763 (OG/WH) FOR OPEN
C46: CHECK CIRCUIT 763 (OG/WH) FOR SHORT TO POWER
C47: CHECK THE TRANSFER CASE ELECTRIC SHIFT MOTOR

 

Little update. I was able to turn the t-case by rising the front end and wiggling the front drive shaft to take it out of 4lo. Now my problem is I can't put the motor back on. I'm going to the junkyard and pickup a used shift motor that works and test it out. I'm kinda curious what's inside. If it works, then I'll buy a new one and rebuild the old one. To sum it all up, I'm still left with the problem of switching between positions. I'm still open to suggestions. I believe now that I have either a motor problem or a trigger problem(failure of acceptable signals from sensors to the GEM)

 

Buzzard, Thanks a bunch. This is just what I'm looking for. I appreciate this. I'll run through all I'm capable checking and leave an update. Again thanks. I believe your 200+miles north of beach from me..

 

Yep, I'm in Houston, but hope to get back to SA (home) in a year or so.

If you suspect any of the general procedures might be the culprit, let me know and I'll post the details.

Good Luck.

 

I sure will. Any idea how to turn the motor to match the 2hi position?

 

Well, I accomplished getting the t-case out of 4lo and into 2hi. I rebuilt the motor and reinstalled. Pretty simple task. However, I'm afraid to test the 4x4 positions. My wife is about ready to give birth with in the next 2 days. I'll have to wait until after the baby is born since the truck is driveable now. I appreciate everyones help. I'll post the solutions as soon as I repair it.