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Cage nut is inserted into each of those slots. There are two braces securing the hood latch at upper valance that come down and secure to the two cage nuts. Had to replace cage nuts on mine. Usually are groved so they will fit in slot in one direction and by turning cage nut secures them in opening. Heard of tack welding to secure also.
Hope answered your question. Good luck,
dave
Last edited by daveengelson; Jul 11, 2004 at 06:31 PM.
Thanks dave.
I guess I'll figure some way to fasten a nut in there. lil bro was installing stainless bolts, I just didn't see how they went in those holes.
Came across some extra cage nuts, but of different variety, certain will work. Welcome to them if you want. Or can give you name of hardware supplier and item # if interested.
Last edited by daveengelson; Jul 11, 2004 at 07:51 PM.
Hey!!! You bet I'll take a name and number, dave. Appreciate the help. I'm getting close to reassembling the front end and I'm getting excited. It has been on blocks for ~5 years now.
A couple more weekends and I'll be assembling the front disc brakes, then LOOK OUT!!!
Just for clarity, the two cage nut spots Dave refers to are not the spots where I used the stainless steel allen head bolts. Where I used the SS bolts are the next two outermost spots for anchoring the grille. These SS bolts come up from below through 1/2" holes I drilled in the lowest level of the core support. They come up through the sheetmetal apron behind the bumper, and thread into clip nuts (if that's the right term) on the grille tabs. Since the head diameter of the allen bolts is 7/16" these bolts can be driven through the access hole, thus eliminating the struggle of using a ground-thin end wrench through the gap between the front edge of the core support and the apron metal to turn/hold nuts on stock bolts coming from topside.
Last edited by Little Bro; Jul 12, 2004 at 01:17 AM.
At simular state with one of my 65's hope to get it's feet on the road within next 4 to 6 weeks. Went back to review receipts and found them going back to 4/2000. Only intended to rebuild the engine and it started from there.
I found it easier to assemble the front section; grill, upper and lower vallance, hood latch assembly and 2 supports, then install in radiator support. Anyhow, purchased the hardware thru 'restorationspecialties.com'. item # 1015j. Tele: (814) 467-9842. They also have an online catalog, perhaps by reviewing you may be able to find the item at local hardware or auto supplier. In my area, good hardware suppliers are hard to come by. i replaced the cage, j and u nuts on front section, and fenders found assembly went much smoother.
good luck,
dave
Last edited by daveengelson; Jul 12, 2004 at 03:17 AM.
Just a thought, but what about drilling out two 1-inch holes underneath those points and going with plain ol' nut-n-bolts? At least that was a thought when I finished fighting the disassembly of mine last week
Little bro, I remember those bolts, now! I will be checking that out before final install.
dave, I'll look at that hardware and see if my local Do-it Center has them. The owner got tired of never having the right hardware and filled a whole isle with fasteners, bolts, screws, etc. and even lots of stainless pieces!!
Good luck, glad i have completed the assembly phase of the restoration. I think you will find by replacing the 2 cage nuts the grill reassembly will go much smoother, and replacing the speed nuts for the upper and lower valance even smoother yet. Last but not least, may want to consider replacing the speed nuts where the grill assembly attaches to the fenders. Finally, recommend reassemble grill before installing in radiator support.