Starting Problem
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Joined: Jul 2004
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Starting Problem
My son's 2003 Escape, V-6, autotrans, 4-wheel drive fails to start on rare and unpredictable occasion. The dealer gave him the stupid answer that the "computer was just adjusting itself to his driving habits." Yeah, right, and he has had the vehicle for almost a year. The problem has caused him to be reluctant to allow his wife to drive by herself. The diagnostic shows nothing because it never has failed in the shop. It generally happens after the vehicle has been run for awhile and then attempted restart after a period of 30 minutes cooling or so. If he waits for about one hour, the problem disappears. Has anyone heard of this problem?
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 12,679
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From: BC, Canada
Hi and welcome to the forum 
I wouldn't be surprised if the fuel pump was on it's way out. Those are pretty classic symptoms.
Unless the dealer can catch it when it wont start it will be hard to verify though. They may just have to try a new pump and see what happens.
I wouldn't be surprised if the fuel pump was on it's way out. Those are pretty classic symptoms.
Unless the dealer can catch it when it wont start it will be hard to verify though. They may just have to try a new pump and see what happens.
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Minnesota
If you can hear the fuel pump whirring briefly when the ignition is first turned on and the engine won't fire, try cracking the throttle slightly while cranking. If it starts okay then, the IAC (idle air control) may be dirty and sticking.
If the fuel pump doesn't whir, check the fuel pump relay under the hood.
If the fuel pump doesn't whir, check the fuel pump relay under the hood.
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Originally Posted by ove1
If the fuel pump doesn't whir, check the fuel pump relay under the hood.
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IAC was replaced as requested. I hate it when you fear going out anywhere at night because the car may not start. After mulling it over, I see only the other two options as the problem, and neither fits the pattern. Relay usually does not fail on occasion and then work for awhile. Although the fuel pump may fail in degrees, it normally goes much faster once it starts the slide and does not recover for awhile. Here's hoping.
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by scapegoat
Although the fuel pump may fail in degrees, it normally goes much faster once it starts the slide and does not recover for awhile. Here's hoping.
Hold your odometer reset button then turn on the ignition (don't start it), release/push the odometer button and each time you'll get a "test". I believe the pressure shows as FP xx.x where xx.x should be somewhere between 23.5 and 24. Sorry, I don't have my exact notes in front of me. I'll post back if I'm incorrect on the reading.
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Question ... is the truck starting for just a second and then stalling (like in the old days when the carb would have enough gas for it to start, but not to run)? It acts just like a bad fuel pump. My problem was the IAC motor (which is basically your choke and idle mechanism). Relacing this ($250), along with reporgramming the PCM solved that problem. Good luck.
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