Would you replace the alternator?..or...
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Southern California
Would you replace the alternator?..or...
just the regulator if the truck ('92 F150 4x4/5.8L)not charging under load? One of the brushes is down to less than.20 but the others are all over 1/4 inch. Don't want to spend more than i need to if just a new regulator will solve the problem. It's a 75amp alt with the five torx screw regulator on the back.
Thanks for any advice/TD
Thanks for any advice/TD
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Southern California
Thanks for the advice...
I went ahead and replaced the whole alternator. Finding the right regulator with brushes attached was a nightmare! Several different shops showed a different application until i described the part...most said regulator and brushes were seperate parts but it looked like one piece to me. Anyway, $109 for a rebuilt alt compared to $47 for the regulator (never did find out if it was the correct one); easier to swap the whole unit out, and hopefully not again soon.
TD
TD
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I have my alternator apart right now. It was working fine, but it was a little noisy. I took it to the alternator shop in a box and they sold me bearings and brushes for $10. This is not the best alternator for a first time rebuild. There is a plug in the wires between the two halves of the alternator that the shop recommends soldering instead of using the plug. If you have it in you to it anyway, you end up with a better alternator than a rebuild from the parts house.
The other recommendation was to never let this alternator overwork. It will put out more than its rated 75Amps and cook itself. If you run your battery down, charge it. Don't just jump it off and let the alternator try to charge the dead battery.
The other recommendation was to never let this alternator overwork. It will put out more than its rated 75Amps and cook itself. If you run your battery down, charge it. Don't just jump it off and let the alternator try to charge the dead battery.
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Junior User
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From: Southern California
I heard that OEM alternators do tend to burn up at the connector. The rebuilds have a rubber connector that requires you to cut off the old connector and splice into wires off the new one. I don't like to splice wires off OEM connectors but there is no other way to do it with the rebuilds. The literature that comes with the unit explains that it makes for a better and safer connection than the original setup. The install was easy.
TD
TD
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There is a connector on the outside that burns up and one on the inside that burns up. The one on the inside connects the diode to the stator. The one on the outside connects the diode to the wiring harness.
I don't like to cut the original wiring either but if you solder the connections and seal them with silicone and shrink wrap they are probably as good as the original. Sometimes old burnt wires are almost impossible to solder unless you sandblast them.
My alternator is back on the truck and seems to be working fine. I have a couple other strange little noises under the hood I am going to chase down.
I don't like to cut the original wiring either but if you solder the connections and seal them with silicone and shrink wrap they are probably as good as the original. Sometimes old burnt wires are almost impossible to solder unless you sandblast them.
My alternator is back on the truck and seems to be working fine. I have a couple other strange little noises under the hood I am going to chase down.
Last edited by HardScrabble; Jul 9, 2004 at 10:40 PM.
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