95 PSD, 4x4, Has any one done this before?? Which Tensioner is the adjustable one?? any pit falls, any tips, any Sugg?
diego

 

If you don't have the knowledge and proper equipment, let a professional it. There is more to it than replacing the compressor and adding freon.

 

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Like what????? Share what you know.

If the system still has remnants of R12 it has to be evacuated properly. Venting freon R12 to the atmosphere is against the law. Secondly, to replace a compressor you need a vacuum pump which has to pump down to 30 in. If you will be using R12 you can not buy it unless you have certification. Lastly, check for leaks. BTW the last time I heard a 30 lb of R12 sells for around $1,000.00. Hope this helps

 

I will have an certified tech, recharge the sys. All I am going to do is replace the unit?? Any pit falls with this???

 

is it R-12 or R-134a?
Why are you replacing the compressor?
With the right tools and equipment, its easy to just replace the compressor.
Recover refridgerent,
r/r compressor with proper amount of oil in compressor
evacuate for 30 min at 30 in vacuum
recharge and check for leaks

 

if it is r-12 use rb-276 it is drop in replacement refrigerant for r-12 medium temp aplications just evacuate system and add proper amount of rb-276

 

1) he has 134 (he is working on a '95)
2) Have the system leak tested before you buy the comp (explained at the bottom)
3) You can have a shop evacuate the refridgerant if there is any
4) Along with the comp, replace the orfice tube and the condenser (better performance and the orfice tube protects the comp)
5) After replacing the comp have the shop flush the system and leak test it. If all is well they will reinstall your refridgerant or replace it

doing a majority of the work will save you money but the shop will not guarantee the work because the parts were not purchased through them. But if there are no leaks then do it yourself.

 

The a/c system needs to flushed after the a/c compressor, accumulator-drier, and orifice tube are removed and before the new parts are installed. I would replace the drier as it the main filter for the system and removes the moisture from the freon. If the compressor "went south", there will be particles trapped in the accumulator-drier and the orifice tube. On some vehicles with a "muffler" in th a/c line, it is recommended to replace the line because "trash" can become trapped in it.

 

Ok, so you all understand, I am replacing the compressor because it is locked, froze, the dealer says the motor is not spinning fast enough because of the frozen comprssor, to get the motor to fire. This is why I need to replace the compressor. I can not drive the truck (IT WON'T START) So getting it to a Air conditioning shop is out of the question until I get the truck started, hence the reason I am replacing the compressor. I got a new one, is there any chance of damageing the new compressor by just replaciing it and then taking the truck (if it starts right to the shop)?? I will not use the AC, I will not even plug in the Wires I just need the thing to spin freely so I can drive the truck. What went south was the Compressor bearings!! I would love the here of any sugg. to start the truck without a working comprssor " I mean one that spins freely"
thx

 

Hold on, wait a minute here. That makes absolutely no sense at all. In order for that compressor to put enough drag on the engine to keep it from starting, it would not only have to be locked up solid, but the clutch would also have to be locked up. While cranking the clutch shouldn't even be energized, so unless it is also bad, the dealer has probably misdiagnosed this.

Take the belt off the compressor and turn the pulley by hand with the ignition off. If the pulley turns, the clutch is not locked.

Now turn the ignition on (don't crank the engine) and select A/C on the climate controls. Try turning the pulley again. If it turns, along with the whole hub, the clutch is probably fine. The compressor could still be toast, but at least it turns.

If the pulley turns with the ignition off, along with the whole hub assembly, the clutch is locked but the compressor is not. (If this is the case, you should have had A/C regardless of the climate selector position.)

In my opinion, what the dealer has told you sounds like a load of bunk. The compressor may well be bad, but if the clutch is OK, which it probably is, the truck should start.

My understanding is the PSD engine needs to crank at a minimum of about 220 rpm to start. Have your batteries load tested at a local shop or parts store as a first step in getting a real diagnosis of the no-start condition, then deal with the A/C compressor after the truck is running.

 

Batteries are brand new, I know the clutch is bad was hot as hell, and metal shavings. I will pull the belt tomarrow and see what spins?? Now here is a question for you guys. Are the compressor clutch and the compressor two sepreate parts. Can just the clutch be bad and replaced??
thx

 

A locked ac comp can prevent an engine from starting.

The most important thing is that you evacuate the system, everything else is cake. See if you can have an ac guy make a house call or get a shorter belt and by-pass the ac comp.

and yes the clutch can be replaced alone

 

If you really want to know if the engine will start, take the serpentine belt off of the engine to remove the drag and see if it will start. If it does, there's your problem, shut it off again right away to prevent overheating and get to work on the AC compressor.

 

Pulled the belt, she fired right up!!!, evacuated the system and replaced the unit. I will take in to the AC tech so he can fill the compressor with oil and recharge the system. thx to all for all the help and Sugg.