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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 12:00 AM
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porting question

How far down can i safely port on the intake side of my heads? cast # C8AE-H

 
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 03:11 AM
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they are not any guidelines.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 05:59 AM
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Its my opinion from someone who has been practicing Porting in my spare time..If your a first timer...practice on some old intakes and heads...

And when you think you have the hang of it..(takes many hours) then only do a port match..Leave the full blown porting to the professionals.. JMHO-Russ

PS- I wouldnt trust my ED Heads to anyone that didnt have a flow bench!
 
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 08:14 AM
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Thats all im doing is port matching, the offy intake I have is like 1/4" lower on the port than the heads. I dont want to hit water.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 08:51 AM
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im assuming that if you use the edel heads and either the rpm or victor intake the match is already right on, but if you get a set of heads that are like KC stage 2 or 3 should you have the intake ported to match?
 
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 11:34 AM
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Just take off enough to generally smooth things off. Round off corners (not at the end of the ports by the gasket though!) and generally get things smooth looking. You dont want to polish the intake port though, fuel needs to atomize, so leave it a little rough.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 02:54 PM
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So the 1/4" diff on the bottom? Im thinking i could take like a 1/8" out on the head side then add a 1/8" on the manifold side to match up. Or add the total 1/4" to the manifold side? I have a heliarc...could easily add metal to the alum manifold.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2004 | 06:43 AM
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Porting Tips

When you port the intake side Do not remove any material from the bottom of the heads. That will make the flow even worse than it was to begin with.
The top of the port is where you want to gain flow...if you open the bottom it will cause the lower stream(if ya can picture this) to conflict with the air in the top of the port and slow the total flow. Also I was told that the small mismatch at the bottom of the ports creates a small venturi that will aid in atomization for a better charge. I just widened the ports on the head and raised the roof to my intake gasket and removed some of the material in the short side turn for a straiter shot to the bowl.
On my peformer RPM I just chamfered the openings a little ...but the ports from the intake ended up being a little smaller than the heads.
For a final finish I used a cartridge roll as far as I could reach to get that rough finish.
I put a pic in my gallery of the ports on my heads...wish I put a gasket up against the head but I took this picture while I was building my 390.
 

Last edited by Dirtydragracer; Jul 3, 2004 at 07:42 AM.
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Old Jul 3, 2004 | 09:08 AM
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what about the sides... the intake is narrower...i could easily widen the intake to match the heads and leave the bottom alone.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2004 | 07:37 AM
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I wouldnt worry too much about making your intake match exactly to the ports of your heads seeing they are bigger. The runner on the intake is roughly the same size quite a ways up into the runner so opening that little bit near the end of the runner wont gain you much. I just chamfered the intake a little for a smooth transition from intake to head.
Really the whole point in gasket matching is to make a smooth transition from intake to head without any obstruction from a mismatch between the 2.
And like it was mentioned above I'd find a junk version of you heads and give a few practice runs. I actually used a d2 head with rotton ears and ground to the water just so I had an idea on how far I could go...never mind getting used to my grinder taking that outa control jump across the intake face. Practice is the key I'v done a couple of sets for other people and its funny how much better they turn out each time I do a set.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2004 | 09:10 AM
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Ive gotton some great advice ...including a email that helped out alot from d44hd. He actually cut a set of heads down the center of a port showing me the all water jackets and ports. Thanks alot guys
 
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