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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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Old Jun 30, 2004 | 10:56 PM
  #1  
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Bed Floor

Hi Guys
Just a quick question. How thick should the wood be in the floor of a 55 f100 short box?
The wood was gone when I got the truck and it looks like it takes 3/4" but I thought I would ask to be shure before buying materials.
BTW I just got this truck about 2 months ago and it is a blast to drive. It is the first 50s vehicle I have ever driven.
Thanks
Shane
 
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 07:40 AM
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LEckart
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Canuck55
Welcome to FTE. 3/4" will work fine. You can make them or purchase from one of the vendors. I bought mine off ebay for a decent price. Most people use oak but other hardwoods can also be used, your choice. 56Fun
 
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 08:34 AM
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I had my boards made 3/4" thick by 5 7/8" wide by 6'6" long. If I were to do it again, I'd make them a bit narrower. 5 7/8" did work but it was pretty tight. I saved more than $100 by having boards made by a millwork shop instead of buying a kit from a vendor, not to mention that I also didn't pay for shipping. White Oak was recommended to me, so that's what I used.

Rob
 
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 10:43 AM
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Perhaps a more economical sloution would be what I'm doing. My 56 Effie is a working truck and I couldn't see spending the time and money to refurbish a beautifully finished plank bed that I couldn't throw stuff on. So, I used one piece of 3/4" X 48" X 6'6" long marine plywood (birch-faced, finished both sides - $30 at Home Depot). I put Herculiner on the edges and bottom for water protection and finished the top to show the nice birch grain. I didn't use any runners and less than half the usual bolts. I only used bolts at the stock mounts between bed and frame and eliminated the three rows of bolts that clamp planks to each other. I used black oxide-coated 5/16" flat socket head bolts with locknuts/washers below. It looks very cool and has been very utilitarian. Total cost $115.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 11:50 AM
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Plywood is a fine solution -- both easy and economical -- if you don't mind a departure from the "classic" appearance. Actually, you could put bed strips on top of the plywood and have it look pretty much original, except that the strips would not be recessed. I use my truck to haul, too, and for that purpose I put a sheet of 48" by 6'6" plywood on top of the oak bedwood. Then I have a nice bed to look at when that's appropriate, without having to worry about bashing it up.

Rob
 
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 05:35 PM
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bed protection

A buddy of mine used rubber mat that is used in some restaurants to keep people from slipping. It is nearly an inch thick and even when you have metal in the back it doesn't get even close to the wood.

Huey
 
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 09:10 PM
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abe's Avatar
abe
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Northern Yellow pine was what Ford used originally. however the yellow pine one can buy in the stores today is too soft, it grows too fast and the rings are too far apart and therefore too soft, and it doesn't look too pretty. I am told that originally Ford painted the wood and bed strips black. At Carlisle 2 years ago I saw a stock 55 that had the bed done like this.
abe
I used red oak that I got cut locally and got it planed, routed, and drilled by a friend and I painted the strips the body color.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2004 | 06:39 PM
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Thanks for the help guys.

I am just going the cheap route for this summer and using plywood with no strips.
This truck is so much fun to drive I would rather spen the money on gas instead of the bed for now. I am in the process of shooting it with some primer this weekend so I can make it look a little better for a big car show next weekend.
Thanks again guys
Shane
 
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