When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am in dire need of replacing the rear pads on my 99 F250 PSD.
Is there anything special on the truck I need to know about in changing pads?
If I open the bleeder screw will I be able to get the caliper pistons pushed in? Or is there a special trick or tip that i need to know about? Will a C clamp give me enough leverage etc.
You don't have to open the bleeders to push the caliper pistons back in. You will need to remove some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir before pushing them in. A C-clamp will do just fine. You may want to flush out the old fluid from the brake system, if you haven't already done so. Just remove all the fluid from the master cylinder that you can and refill with fresh fluid. Bleed all the brakes, adding fluid as necessay until the new fluid comes out the bleeders. It is a good idea to do this every 2 years as the fluid absorbs moisture and will allow corrosion to form in the brake system.
You don't have to open the bleeders to push the caliper pistons back in. You will need to remove some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir before pushing them in. A C-clamp will do just fine. You may want to flush out the old fluid from the brake system, if you haven't already done so. Just remove all the fluid from the master cylinder that you can and refill with fresh fluid. Bleed all the brakes, adding fluid as necessay until the new fluid comes out the bleeders. It is a good idea to do this every 2 years as the fluid absorbs moisture and will allow corrosion to form in the brake system.
hold on, this is news to me, i have been doing brakes for alot of years(20+) and have never heard of taking fluid out of the master cylinder. as far as rear discs go you either open the bleeder and compress the cyclinder with a c-clamp or what ever, or you open the bleeder and screw in the cylinder with a disc brake cylinder tool
hold on, this is news to me, i have been doing brakes for alot of years(20+) and have never heard of taking fluid out of the master cylinder.
If your master cylinder is full and you dont remove some of the fluid when you compress the pistons in the calipers it will push the fluid back into the master cylinder and it will overflow. i used two c clamps when i did my brakes they are dual piston calipers if you try to push one piston in it pushes the other out of the caliper
will a c tool do it?
or do I need to get the tool to screw it in?
Thanks
the last one i bought i got from autozone or checker it is a cube with different lugs or points on it for different brake manufactures and it fits on a 3/8 rachet, look for something that looks like a metal cube and says it is a "disc brake caliper tool"( or something like that) you should know it when you see it
i will say i have never done the rear disc brakes on an sd but the "rear" disc brakes i have done have had to be screwed back in not just pressed back in,(parking brake) and even when i have ever done the standard press in caliper i have always opened the bleeder valve than pressed them back in, and then bled the brakes
the superduties have a drum parking brake inside the rotors. i have opened the bleeders before but i usually end up with a mess. brake fluid all over and air in the lines. in my opinion it is easier to take some fluid out of the master cylinder. a turkey baster works good, just dont use it for turkeys again
You don't have to open the bleeders to push the caliper pistons back in. You will need to remove some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir before pushing them in. A C-clamp will do just fine. You may want to flush out the old fluid from the brake system, if you haven't already done so. Just remove all the fluid from the master cylinder that you can and refill with fresh fluid. Bleed all the brakes, adding fluid as necessay until the new fluid comes out the bleeders. It is a good idea to do this every 2 years as the fluid absorbs moisture and will allow corrosion to form in the brake system.
YES you do need to open the bleeder valve! If you force fluid reverse through the system you can fracture ABS valves, pump bodys, etc., open the bleeder valve-it is easier this way anyway
YES you do need to open the bleeder valve! If you force fluid reverse through the system you can fracture ABS valves, pump bodys, etc., open the bleeder valve-it is easier this way anyway
Repair manuals state that you should remove some of the brake fluid to allow room for the fluid to return to the reservoir as the caliper pistons are pushed back in. I have done it this way and have not had any problems on any anti-lock brake vehicle. For the brake system to work properly, fluid has to be able to return as the brake pedal is released. This is also true of the anti-lock control valving. While opening the bleeders will eliminate the risk of damage, I have not found it necessary in my years doing brake jobs.
Last edited by mueckster; Jul 1, 2004 at 08:37 AM.
I just replaced my rear rotors and pads this morning on my 2001 Excursion and I decided to bleed the brake fluid as I compressed each caliper piston. I was worried about messing up the ABS sensors and somewhere I read about the interior of brake lines breaking down and gunking up the fluid. So, as I compressed the pistons and bled the brake fluid I was able to take a look at the brake fluid and make sure it wasn't discolored. I looked at the master cylinder reservoir after I did both the fronts and rears this way and the fluid level didn't drop very much at all. I am going to keep a small unopened bottle of brake fluid in the car and keep an eye on the master cylinder reservoir fluid level.
Done my 02 a while back....used a large channel lock plier to compress the pistons. Done it slowly and had to work on each piston alittle at a time to get them back flush in the caliper. Didn't mess with the brake fluid as I had room in my resevoir. Took about 15min per wheel after I got the tire off.
Repair manuals state that you should remove some of the brake fluid to allow room for the fluid to return to the reservoir as the caliper pistons are pushed back in. I have done it this way and have not had any problems on any anti-lock brake vehicle. For the brake system to work properly, fluid has to be able to return as the brake pedal is released. This is also true of the anti-lock control valving. While opening the bleeders will eliminate the risk of damage, I have not found it necessary in my years doing brake jobs.
It doesnt matter if that is how you have always done it, its a matter of fact that fluid sent reverse through an ABS system has the potential to cause many thousands of dollars worth of damage. When I was a big truck mech the dealership I worked at also serviced Isuzus. While taking a course on hydraulic brakes sponsered by Isuzu pictures were presented showing the effect of brake fluid sent reverse through an ABS system. Busted valve bodys, fractured ABS pumps, etc. (and to rebutt the cross that this only applies to Isuzus, this is not so, it is applicable to all ABS systems, I have witnessed it happen to a SAAB)
So yes in your many years of doing brakes before ABS your method is advisable. today your method is a costly mistake waiting to happen that is easily preventable by breaking the bleeder valve.
I will agree that opening the bleeder while pushing in the caliper piston is a good practice to prevent any problems with anti-lock component damage, but I have not seen it documented in any repair manual warning of such damage by not opening the bleeders. I have done many brake jobs on vehicles with anti-lock brakes and have not had any problems with the method I use. To each his own. If it makes you feel better, then do it. I feel that if the pistons are pushed in slowly enough and without extreme force, everything will be alright.
I will agree that opening the bleeder while pushing in the caliper piston is a good practice to prevent any problems with anti-lock component damage, but I have not seen it documented in any repair manual warning of such damage by not opening the bleeders. I have done many brake jobs on vehicles with anti-lock brakes and have not had any problems with the method I use. To each his own. If it makes you feel better, then do it. I feel that if the pistons are pushed in slowly enough and without extreme force, everything will be alright.
i would agree, if it works then fine, i went to wrenchers school a long time ago,and was taught to always open the bleeder valve and then compress or screw in the cyilnder. i have always done it this way and always will. it was the way i was taught and i have never had any problems