anyone know the best way to remove the paint off my 66 ford. chemicals or sanding are the ways i know how are there any other ways? and whats the quickest and easiest way to do it? thanks

 

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The quickest (although not the most inexpensive) way is to have someone else sandblast it. The problem with sandblasting is the sheetmetal can be warped, even if the person knows what he is doing. To top it off, blasting material will appear out of nowhere, months later. I've had one car stripped by blasting. I'll never do it again.

I use to use 32 grit on a DA sander. I just finished stripping a 65 Mustang where I used a different process. I put a 3M 7" soft interface pad on a regular grinder and attached self-stick 40 grit sandpaper to the pad. It was rip city. I was amazed how quicker the process was. Of course, I still had to finish up with 80 grit on a DA sander.

 

On a truck bed I have used sandblasting (or bead blasting) and it
has worked out pretty good. If you have it done it can get expensive.
If I can get the fender or hood completely off and there is a ton of
old paint the chemical strippers will work but it is nasty and dirty
work.

This question comes up quite a bit..you might check the archives.

 

I am currently doing a 64' longbox and will be using the services of an acid dipper.

All the panels are off the truck so I can easily transport (although he is right across the road from my shop!) them to his tanks and do them as money permits.

The panels are dipped in some kind of solution, soaked and rinsed.....they are then dipped in a tank of primer/inhibitor to prevent flash rust. From there you can start you body work on the actual metal and not waste time on the paint removal (read....it gets into EVERY nook and cranny)......which, if you add it up may cost more than the dipping!

Prices are about...$75 per fender..$100 for hood.....$100 per door...$325 for cab and $375 for the box.

Now, I will not be doing all the body parts as some of them are easier to do than others(bodywork wise), but $600-$700 spent on this will make my life alot easier!

FYI: I am doing a complete frame-off and will be showing the truck, so I may be willing to spend a little more on this project than if I was doing a daily driver.

Hope this may give you another idea and I would like to hear what some of the body pros here have to say about this process.

Mike.

 

The fastest way is to use the 40 grit and a DA sander as stated on the larger areas (stay off of the creases and ridges) and use a 3M strip disc (looks lok a sponge material) to get into the nooks and crannies.
If you don't have a large compressor and a DA sander, you can use a 6" disc sander on a drill. I did.

 

Hey Mike, do you happen to know what type of primer they are using?
Dennis

 

No I don't. I am definately no expert on body/paint!

I have only talked to this guy once or twice just to get an idea on costs etc.

I will try to get over there and see if he has any info he can give me or is willing to share....I think it is more of an inhibitor than a primer though.

Mike.

 

I use a 4" grinder with a wire brush. Works well for me....

 

Hey Dennis,
Here's some info for you on the dipping process I mentioned earlier.

When the part comes out of the tank it is rinsed and then dipped in a poly-phosphate (?) solution that is just like what the factory puts on during manufacturing to prevent rust.

He says that you can paint right over top of it (unless more bodywork is reqd.).

Right now they have about 5-6 cars in the shop getting done....some nice stuff....the 55' f100 was looking good!

Check out their website: (triple dub).rmc-industries.com it shows you a basic idea of what they do.

Mike.

 

sandblasting is the cheapest ,fastest and messey, but thats the way to go.i got my 69 torino sanblasted two days ago for $200, just make sure to cover up stuff really good.

 

$200!!??. for that I would take my 55 somewhere for sure.. but the local shops here near austin want $350 for the CAB and two doors.. Hood is another 100!!.. no dippers around here either.

Sam

 

Sam ,holdup son, if it is in and out it sounds fair make sure to get them to remove all chromes and windows and door hanles and replace them for the same price nothing more than $350.

 

Well, I understand the phosphate. You get a phosphate deposit when you use the standard rust converter like Rust Mort or Metal Ready. Poly-phosphate I haven't heard of but that doesn't mean anything. There's a lot of things I haven't heard of. A search show its to be a molecularly dehydrated phosphate (as if I know what that means) and it appears to be a family of chemicals (i.e. Sodium Hexametaphosphate, Sodium Tripolyphosphate, Zinc Polyphosphates & etc.). All of them are used for scale and corrosion control.

Sigh. Wish I had the money to dip my 53.

 

Thanks..thats ME doin all the prep. Another $150 if they have to fiddle with handles, etc.. I'm down to the exterior handles anyhow.

But I've got other things to spend money on, and I can certainly stand here holdin the sand blast hose for 600 or 700 dollars.. and I've got PLENTY of time, as I'm 4 years in and just gettin to the body!

Sam