LMFAO !!!!

 

Just fixed mine up today. It works great, the display is back. I raised the power resistors off the board and resoldered many connections on the back side. Be very careful with the small surface mount resistors and capacitors, they will come off the board when heated. I had to use some tape to hold one side down while soldering the other end. I wonder why they only used 2 watt resistors and why the leads are so short, it seems like there would be room for a higher wattage power resistor and they could have them way off the PCA. I ran it for a while with the RF shield off and man do the resistors get hot, no wonder why all these problems exist. If it fails again I am going to replace the resistors and stand them way off the PCA.

Glad to have it working again, good luck to all.

 

Dude, THANKS for the hot tip!! I took my radio apart today, resoldered the connections on the power supply as you suggested and it actually works! You just saved me a bunch of money. Thanks so much!

 

bberube,
Glad to have helped. It's been a while since I posted this. I was suprized to see it is still helping someone. I fixed my radio over a year and a half ago and it is still working.(knock on wood) I think it was poor manufacturing in Mexico. Good luck with your radio.

Ford trucks are #1,

Roger

 

I am no good at soldering, but my Dad is so he resoldered the board for me. It still didn't fix it. Just installed the new (rebuilt) board from the www.shareamemory folks and it's working. I am curious to see for how long. $70 is better than I could have done.

 

I had soldered mine up. Finally I got it to work for about 6 months until it quit again. I'd like to buy a new board, but for $75 or whatever I don't want it to quit in another year or two.

 

I understand that, I am going somewhat on their claim to completely rebuild the board, which should make it more reliable. I'm hoping anyway. If not, I know the radio from a '00 F250 will fit, I'll try something like that if there's another failure.

 

Great post by 00limited7!

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...5&postcount=71

Directions are clear and concise. If you have a small soldering tip, you can get it done.

I took off the face plate by removing the two small black screws at the sides of the plate. Remove the faceplate and disconnect the connector that joins to the board in question. The lid of the radio just pops off. Remove one screw at the top left at the rear of the deck. This screw is what attaches the transistor heat sink of the board to the main heat sink. Follow 00limited7's directions, and away you go!

Display is nice and bright. I need shades!

 

dbradey,
Glad to have helped! Mine is still working.
Rock on people!!!

Double "O" out....

 

In the radio I repaired, it was the RF shield tab solder joints that caused the display failure. The RF shield completes the ground connection from one end of the PCB to the other, there is NO internal ground plane:




Before repair:



After repair:




One other word of caution, the SMT (Surface Mount Technology) devices ARE NOT glued to the PCB!!!

 

For those who would like some pictures to help guide in the removal and repair of the display power supply, check out the following link. Its a 14 page PDF file of instructions and pictures for each step.

http://home.ptd.net/~bubbat55/Files/...aineer_Fix.pdf

 

Good to know about that heat shield! Thanks!

 

I have the same trouble, and have tried only a couple of simple things without success - after one hour on my bench with power, the CD player wouldn't "fail". I agree that there are probably two seperate issues - bad connections and a temperature isssue with the CD.

I work in a large electrics manufacturing facility, have an EE degree, and know all too well that most "intermitent" failures like these are caused by "poor connection" issues including poor soldering on the circuit board, and loose-fitting connectors - I am pretty sure that my radio has several connection issues, based on how it behaves when I push on the front/face plate.

My "to do" list has this one near the bottom, but here are a couple of tricks that repair tech's (and you brave soles) might try:

Buy a harness ($10) and the release tools from Auto Zone and test your radio on your work bench. The wires are marked/screen to indicate where each gets connected. Start by light force applied directly to "suspect" areas such as where connectors and Chip/IC's (muli-lead devices) are soldered to the pcb.
Keep a close eye on the display and only do one thing at a time, so that you know what area has the poor connection - you need to know the general area to "touch-up" with a soldering iron - a lot of times, you won't be able visibly see these problems.

About the Temperature problem. Radio Shack sells cans of "freeze-it" (or something like that) - You spray it on the suspect part, while the unit is powered up and NOT working and check to see if the problem goes away.

 

Should have read the more recent posts - looks like "00...7" found it.

 

I believe B Ayers has it pinned down. While I've already had the board out once and resoldered componets I don't recall checking the tabs on the heat sink. Was contemplating spending the $19.99 on ebay for instructions OR buying a new board from Auto Radio and Electronics OR Speedometer service.com 800-442-4491 and 800-332-1827 but could find no details on either for ordering on line so will pull the board and take another look