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Not quite sure what you mean.
Sorry I mistook your earlier statement, my bad read Is it possible the alt is not workong properly? Is it using the stock type regulator? What voltage do you measure while idleing with AC, fan, etc. on? The MSD boxes use 1 amp per 1000 rpm according to them.
well, I was trying to compare alternators to engines...does a high current alternator make it's power at higher rpms, and give up some power at lower rpms?
I guess I'm using a stock type regulator? Is that the piece attache dto the radiator support or is it built in to the alternator?
My dash gauge shows 10-11 volts at idle, in gear at a low idle of 700rpm. That with the AC on. Once I rev past 1000 rpm it starts to climb, and by 1500 rpm it's at 13v.
The high ouput alts should give more power at all times.
Yes, that is the regulator on the core support. Have you replaced it with an electronic version? Most parts store replacements are electronic instead of the old point style, they will handle higher output better.
That is too low of a reading at idle, it should at least maintain 12v at idle.
Make sure the belt is not slipping and the wires( all the alternator to regulator wires) are good with solid connections AND the charge wire is big enough to handle the current.
I have used Redline Water Wetter with noticeable results in my '66 F100 with a 428.
Greg, you should read 12V @ idle and anything past idle should read 13.5 to 14V..
Of course with that bump stick we have your going to see some drift in those numbers..
I havent been thru all this yet...as my motor is far from being done? Just bought a Pool...
Now after thinking about it over night.. You could? sneak over to Seans House! He's got that crown vic setting there....and the cops used those in certain area's
And you know all the electrical crap they run..I would ****** one of those?
But your going to have to upgrade your regulator and maybe some of the wires to handle the higher Amps.. Cause its realy not about Volts were talking here..
Electronics 101 tells you the volts get the amps to where they need to go and amperage does the work!
Thats why in my house here in the country I have 200 amps..
Greg, I got a 160amp that puts out 80amps at 800rpm from POW. They brand new units not rebuilt. I paid 210.00 for the 160amp. They have a 200amp (100amps at 800rpm). for 260-280.00).
BTW, I am in Orange, TX. AAny good Drag strips around here?.
I picked up a new voltage regultor today (transistor unit). That and some Water Wetter, just to see if it actually runs a little cooler. Maybe that will help keep things cooler in the cab as well.
I may try to trace out the wires in that harness and replace them with new wires and connections. I assume there is one large hot wire that goes from the alternator to the regulator then to the postive terminal on the solenoid???
I'll probably still go through with the additional battery hook-up, since I like to crank up the tunes when I'm at the lake or such.
Have you replaced it with an electronic version? Most parts store replacements are electronic instead of the old point style, they will handle higher output better.
welldiver... I'll add to ask for an electronic regulator for a 80's externally regulated Ford automobile. That will get you the good regulator which can be added to any Ford with an external regulator.(except generators )
The new voltage regulator may have helped a little, but not much. I have yet to install the second battery...that will happen soon. I also need to clean and replace some of the wiring and connections to see what that does. I noticed the wires going to the reguator are not very big...14-16 guage???
The truck is running pretty good. I put in some Water Wetter and it seems to be staying cooler, even with the AC on max at idle. And it's pretty warm and humid here. So, I think I have won the cooling battle.
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