hooked up my boost & pyro gauge's today, I was dissapointed with
myself when the pyro didn't even budge. The boost worked but seems
like the turbo should be making more boost than what I was seeing.
I'm not sure how many lbs it was pushing b/c i don't understand the
segments before 5 lbs. There is 0 lbs, a segment, a segment, then 5,
So, is the first notch 3 lbs then the second 4 lbs, then 5? I understand
it after 5 fine. The needle was sittn just a little under the first seg
ment at 70, sometimes right on it, because of a very slightly grade.
When I received my pyro, I noticed the needle was stuck on 200, Is
it faulty, or do you think it will work right when i get the gauge working?
Oh and neither one of the lights worked for the gauge's?

 

What brand of gauges do you have? Where did you install the pyro probe? On level ground with no load, less than 5 psi is normal at cruising speed.

 

i have autometer, I installed the thermocouple in the side of the exhaust manifold,
yeah, I geuss you have to dog it to make it make over 5psi, huh?

 

Do you have the wiring installed correctly? Did you make sure the wires from the pyro probe were not touching where they are connected with the screws, before covering with the heat shrink? My Autometer gauge goes below the lowest mark,when off, and jumps up when the ignition is turned on. Does everything have a good ground? Where did you go for your power source and grounds?

 

I think that your pyro gauge is normal. I have autometer gauges in my truck. When they came the pyro gauge was also reading around 100-200 and after it was hooked up it worked fine. Now if the gauge reads 200 all the time even in the truck there is a problem. And as for the boost, cruising around the road mine reads about 1-2 pis at 70 mph. and under full power 20 psi.

 

uh yeah i'm pretty sure all wires are hooked up accordingly. hmm I may have left
them touching, not purposly tho, hehe. I geuss I'll check that out after work. I think
I have a fairly good ground's. But I'll tweak with em to see if their not grounding good.
Ok, for the power sources I went to a red wire, that was dangling below the dash
that was hooked up to the brake controller for trailer's, it's hot I accidently touched
a ground with it. then for the boost illumination I tapped into a light blue & red &
the same for the pyro, light blue & red. I may have tapped tapped into the same
light blue and red tho? Oh the grounds are grounded at bolts behind the knee bolster.

 

On my '01, I used a red wire w/ yellow stripe on a 4 pin round connector found above the diagnostic port and behind the dash. This wire is ignition fed and works with the key on. Sounds like you have yours wired "hot" and should have a pyro reading at all times. Hope you find your problem.
LOL,
mueckster

 

I tapped into that one, and it worked! So I now have a working boost and pyro
gauge, I still have to do some tweaking to make the lights work on the gauges,
they don't work. What wires did y'all tap into to get gauge illumination? Man
them egt's can climb in a hurry, & they drop shortly too, after decelaration. Thanks

 

While not knowing which model you have, I used these instructions for dealing with illumination. I don't know who to credit them to but they're not mine.

Wiring the Lights when Mounting Gauges on the 1999-2000 Powerstroke

When mounting the gauges the gauge lights can easily be wired into the vehicle's dimmer switch by following these steps:
1. Turn the light switch to the "on" position.
2. Pull out on the switch **** until it stops and then pull slightly more to reveal an access hole on the bottom of the **** (about 7:00 o'clock position). This hole may not be totally visible but can be accessed using a small pocket screwdriver.
3. Push the screwdriver through the hole and push on the release tab while gently pulling on the ****. The **** should come off easily - Do Not Force It.
4. Position the light switch to the "off" position.
5. Rotate the **** 180 degrees and put it back on the post.
6. Position the light switch back to the "on" position.
7. The light panel can now be pulled out of the dash.
8. The gauge wire can now be tapped into the blue wire with a red tracer located on the right side of the panel.
Use the one on the far right - light blue - (thanks Dan)
9. If more than one gauge is being installed all of their lights can be tied together and tapped to this wire.
10. Once the wire is securely in place the panel can be slid back into the dash. Make sure the switch is still in the "on" position.
11. Turn light switch to "off" position and remove ****.
12. Turn **** 180 degrees and snap back on to the post.
13. The other gauge light wire can the tied together and grounded to the chassis.

 

well I installed my edge ez module after I installed the gauge's, Does it take a couple
day's before it really set's in and you can actually feel a power difference?

 

I tapped into the connector to the right of the steering column behind the fuse panel cover. The connector is brown with 6 wires. The top center wire is blue w/ a red stripe. This is for illumination and will dim with dash light resistor ****. Tap into this wire. It's easier than removing the headlight switch. These instructions are for the '99-'02s(except on the '02 the wire may be yellow). By the way, what year truck do you have?

 

my truck's a early 99, i think. build date=2/15/99. I think thats the wire I tyed
into. Also would you have any idear why my module wouldn't be working, it is
plugged in correctly.

 

Sorry, I can't help you with that one. I have the Superchips Microtuner and haven't had any experience with the Edge products. I did have an immediate increase in power when I installed the Superchips programmer. Maybe you should start a new thread regarding your Edge EZ module.

 

many, many thanks to all of you for your help, Wouldn't have got accomplished
what I did without your help.