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Can anyone tell me what the rear axle ratio should be on my 1994 F-250 7.3l turbo IDI? It's a 4x4 with an E4OD trans. As far as I know, no mods have been done to it at all.
Thanks,
Dave
Dave,
Check on your door sticker. It will have "axle code" there. Post it here and you get feedback as to what was in the truck when manufactured. It may have been changed by previous owner, so if you want more accurate info. crawl under the truck and on the bolts on the back side of the differential will (should) be a metal tag. Post that info here and you'll get some replys.
Thanks to both of you. The axle code on the door sticker is 35. As far as Dave's method is concerned, I'll have to get the truck on the highway and try to get specific RPMs at 60 or 65 mph.
Thanks a lot for the info. I kind of suspected that after reading Dave's post, as I thought my truck's performance was roughly similar to the numbers he put up. I had thought that maybe my differentials were higher geared because I haven't been real happy with the way this truck tows my 5000 lb. trailer --- doesn't seem to pull that well, even though it runs fine. My son-in-law pulls the same kind of trailer with a '93 GMC H.D. 3/4 ton with 4:11 gears and a stock 350 gasser, and that truck pulls as well or better than mine. I got rid of a GMC 350 to get this, put a lot of money into front end rebuild, brakes, shocks, trans, etc., and now I've still got a truck that doesn't perform all that well. Kind of disappointing. Thanks again for the help.
Dave, the "other" Dave has a turbo on his truck and pulls heavy loads daily. I'm sure he'll jump back in here with some help for you. My '84 has a 4 speed, 2X4, w/o turbo and 4.10 gears. My only dislike with it is the high RPM at highway speeds. It pulls fine. The man I purchased it from only used it to pull his 32' travel trailer on wheat harvest. So, it must pull OK!
I've got a '76 Chev 4X4 with stock 350 with 20,000 miles on new engine and it pulls good, but when I have my 6000# trencher behind it you can tell it's "carrying the mail". But, I've had "ole greenie" since 1980 and she's done very good!
Fatshot,
I have a reman 7.3 with a true ATS turbo and 3" outlet flange on the turbo. The it goes into a 3" downpipe, straight through muffler, another 24" of 3" pipe to a Y that splits to two 3" stacks.
The stock Ford 2.5 " exhaust and muffler are killing your power.
With the weight kit we have on that skid steer it weighs in at 8500
The trailer is a custom built job with a 1/4" steel deck on it, it is 4500
My dump truck weighs 7860 without me in it.
I have a pyrometer to watch the EGT's
I also have a boost guage to watch the turbo output
I often have to back out of the throttle to keep the heat under control
I also have to back out of the throttle to keep the speed under control
There is another possibility, the previous owner may have overheated the turbo and damaged the impeller which would not give you full turbo boost
Dave ---
Thanks for all the info. I don't know how much of that stuff I can afford to do to this truck, but I guess I'll just start slow and see how it goes. I appreciate the help.
Pyrometer is around 140 dollars.
You should be able to get a 3" exhaust for around 300.
The turbo flange from ATS I have no idea about, but should not be that much.
Broke my rear driveshaft today cause I had another 3000 pounds on it with the above load. Had to stop on a 12% hill and I let the clutch out a little fast when I started off again. Thank god for the 4x4, I have front wheel drive now till I get a new driveshaft made.
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