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when i put the intake back on my 390 and tightened the rockers down i noticed my pushrods were pretty loose, i mean really loose, a guy told me the lifters had bled out from sitting, it only sat for 3 days, so i put it all back togather and got it running again and i noticed a clicking sound from the valve covers, and after a bit it went away but now it does it every time i start it but goes away shortly after, i looked at the crane web site and they said it was normal, i wouldnt think its normal to have lifters bleed out over night, Any Ideas?
Oh it doesnt take long for them to bleed down..and anti pump -ups will even bleed down faster.. stop and think about the small volume of oil they hold? one drop of oil is is a fair amount in a lifter..they dont have much of a capicity...
its wierd how you can here lifter rattle when you start it up then after 30 sec it goes away, ive never heard this on any of my other FE's but i guess they all have stock cams in them to.
ok ive about had enough my 390 runs like total @^*!, its spewing oil out the back of the intake like its free, i blew another header gasket, the same side as before, #^(# fel-pro gaskets, my holley 650 is spewing gas all over my engine and is running like @^*%, it back fires like no other and only has power after 2,000 RPM, ive got a Barry Grant road demon 725 on the way so hopefully that fixes the runng like !@#$ problem, im getting victor nitroseal header gaskets which i hope fixes the header leak problem and another fel-pro intake gasket which i hope fixes that problem, after another 20 hours of work i should be on the road, if not there will become a forsale sign on the windshield.
What oil filter are you using? How long does it take oil pressure to come up? My lifters don't ever rattle. They will bleed down quicky like Russ said but the should get primed on startup. My oil pressure is at 20psi before the engine even fires and it fires very quickly. You might be able to stop the gasket leak with some brake cleaner and some blur RTV. I will never use those cork end seals again after taking DFs advice and laying a thick bead of RTV down instead!
Y'all ain't makin' givein me a warm fuzzy feelin about doing this rebuild on my FE. I certainly hope these issues are more the exception then the rule. Having wrenched the better part of my life, 30+ yrs, on everything from cooler motors to P&H mining shovels and Terex trucks, I have certainly learned at least one lesson. Murphy resides in everyones toolbox and sometimes he comes out to play too much. Hang in there Fordman. Everyone count to ten and dig in.
WHOAH!!!!!! HOLD ON EVERYONE!!!!!!!!!
Deep breaths....... calming thoughts......drink one up/smoke one up, what
ever y'all gotta do to stay calm.... owmmmm owmmmm owmmmmm
Just dont forget that we drive/build these things because they ARENT the
most easy things to get right, especially w/ performance parts.
Hell, any one can bolt crap on a chebby and it will run, it takes a certain kind of person to master what we have.... once its all done, and yer out draggin, out pullin, out muddin all your buddies, then you will know what I am talking about!!!!!!!!!!!!! PEACE MAN!!!!!!!!
Sean im useing a regular napa oil filter right now, my oil pressure comes up to maybe 10 when im cranking and when it starts it idles at about 65. im changing oil in it this weekend and ill put a motorcraft oil filter on it and 10w-30 motorcraft oil.
ive tried the brake cleaner and red RTV silicone to try and sealup theleak but it only held for 1 day and started leaking again, ill try it again and if it doesnt work ill pull it apart and use a thick beed of black RTV.
fordman428: When I installed my 410 years ago I used TRW lifters, they would pump up
with the large stainless steel tulip intake valves. Plan "B" I installed a 270/290 CJ cam with crane lifters, they use a ball check not a disc valve as in TRW's. No valve float but one lifter clack for 30-50 valve cycles every cold start. After 8,000 miles of chebby music I removed each lifter and cleaned inside and returned to proper lobe bore.
I now have silent cold starts, AKA dead chebby. One lifter from the factory new had a metal sliver inside. Still silent and going on 421,000 miles. "Don't trust anyone". Carl.
.................................................. ....................................o&o>.......... ............
Fordman....Instead of using a multi viscosity oil...why dont you just use a 30 wt..
Not telling you what to do..I run Valvoline Racing Oil in a 30 wt.. and I run the Wix filter if I can find them or the motorcraft..I do this in all my cars and trucks..and have never had a Lifter issue? Maybe just luck?
And for all you guys putting your rebuilds together..Try using Valvoline VR-1 Oil in your motors for Break-in as its the only oil I know of that still contains (ZINC)
which is great for proper bearing break-in....
Hay fordman428; if the lady (FE) is too complicated for ya you should stay with a
"simple people" brand like chebby. Stroke her water jackets, rub them rods, feel (fuel) up the intake and she'll get ya wet (melted) rubber on the street. A little bit of "good go juice" and a bottle of fine oil and she'll be your love of your life. Be patient with her, show respect and treat her moans, she'll run forever. With over 28 years in F 250's and over 900,000 miles with FE's, shortest engine life 245,000, longest 423,000 and still going strong what can I say? I just wanted to stir ya up. Carl.........o&o>.............
My 390 has been ticking away on start up for the last 20 000+ miles, and it makes this other metallic noise too. The engine rattles pretty good getting up to speed, but it never seems to get any louder over time..... Appears to be harmless so far,
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