Engine cleaning
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Engine cleaning
After having leaky valve cover gaskets ('88 XLT V6 that STILL runs like the day I got it) for a VERY long time, I'd like to clean my engine and get some of the baked-on crap off it. It makes doing anything under the hood a very dirty job. I considered taking it in for steam-cleaning, but having lost my job this week I'd rather find an effective, cheaper "DIY" solution.
I know there's a lot of engine-cleaning product on the market. Any suggestions for one over another?
I know there's a lot of engine-cleaning product on the market. Any suggestions for one over another?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,436
Likes: 117
From: Virginia
Originally Posted by markvj
After having leaky valve cover gaskets ('88 XLT V6 that STILL runs like the day I got it) for a VERY long time, I'd like to clean my engine and get some of the baked-on crap off it. It makes doing anything under the hood a very dirty job. I considered taking it in for steam-cleaning, but having lost my job this week I'd rather find an effective, cheaper "DIY" solution.
I know there's a lot of engine-cleaning product on the market. Any suggestions for one over another?
I know there's a lot of engine-cleaning product on the market. Any suggestions for one over another?
Welcome to FTE!
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Originally Posted by G2IC_Wraith
Let me just start by saying sorry for the job bro. As far as your dirty engine goes I would just warn you about the laws in your area. You may want to check local EPA laws, but I don't know of any where here in the states where you can "wash" oil and other toxic waste down the street. Places that have approval to clean under the hood have preventative measures in place to make sure this "sludge" doesn't leak into the ground. Not to sound too green, but it would suck if one of your next posts was "unemployed sitting in the slammer".
Or forget about it and buy and extra bar of Lava.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,436
Likes: 117
From: Virginia
GoJo works wonders on the hands 
Also, at the risk of being flamed for this
.... I usually use gloves. Craftsman, or blue rubber ones. It depends on the job I am trying to do, and what chemicals I will get my hands into.
Also, at the risk of being flamed for this
.... I usually use gloves. Craftsman, or blue rubber ones. It depends on the job I am trying to do, and what chemicals I will get my hands into.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 6,940
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From: Eastern WA
A few cans of Gunk and a trip to the car wash will solve the probem. Remember, make sure the engine is not hot; I've seen people crack exhaust manifolds by tossing warm water on them when they are still hot from driving. Wait 10 minutes with the hood open. Also, avoid spraying the high pressure water directly on the sensors. This is a good way to get water into them and cause problems. On the other hand, don't be afraid to clean the engine. Locate the sensors and fuel injectors, etc before hand then just be reasonably careful.
Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; Jun 19, 2004 at 07:50 PM.
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Hotshot
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 12,170
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From: The hills of No. Calif.
I agree with the DIY carwash routine, that's how I've always done it. I like to take along a piece of cardboard or something to lay on so that I can get down and clean underneath as well. And a lot of quarters, you'd be suprised how fast you can eat them up when you do this, still cheaper that paying a shop to steamclean it, tho. Also, take along a strong flashlight so that you can see into the darker nooks and crannies where crap builds up but you can't see too well. I've also started using Castrol Superclean, it's environmentally safe but still a potent cleaner, and doesn't have that Gunk stink to it. Really study where you want to clean before you start, 'cause when you get to spraying under there it's easy to miss things when everything's wet. When I did my '89, I also took my floor jack so I could get it up on one side a bit to have better access underneath, but without actually getting under the truck. Have fun, and be ready to get wet! -TD
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 160
Likes: 2
From: USA
I clean my motor on my 94 2.3 every spring and fall. I pick up any cheap can of engine degreaser and a can of engine detailer (I think it's called CD2?...stuff that you spray on and don't have to wipe off almost like No Touch tire cleaner). Take them up to the local self serve powerwashing car wash place. Anyway, yea...I let the motor cool down a bit mainly because I don't want the degreaser catching of fire. On older motors you'd have to worry about the distributor. On this motor the only thing I avoid spraying directly into is the alternator. All other parts are fair game. Spray on the degreaser and let it set for about ten minutes, then powerwash it with water. After that I spray the engine detailer on and you're done. This stuff shines and protects paint, plastic, metal, and rubber. You won't believe how good the motor looks afterwards...better than brand new. It makes working on the engine much easier and a clean motor runs cooler.
Junior User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 63
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Originally Posted by CowboyBilly9Mile
Also, avoid spraying the high pressure water directly on the sensors. This is a good way to get water into them and cause problems. On the other hand, don't be afraid to clean the engine. Locate the sensors and fuel injectors, etc before hand then just be reasonably careful.
Any tips on where these are to avoid them? Should you cover them with something?
Also, is there anything you should add grease onto that may have been "cleaned"?
00 B4000 auto 4x4
P.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 12,170
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From: The hills of No. Calif.
It's not a bad idea to do a lube job on your suspension if you have cleaned that, to force out any water that may have gotten in there (Water under pressure does find it's way into all sorts of places) but I can't think of anything off-hand that would need some grease externally after washing it off. As for sensors, look for places on the intake manifold and plenum that have wires going to them with the connectors that Ford uses. You might want to look at a manual to get a better idea of where the sensors are located on your particular engine. The TPS sensor is always located right where the big hose from the airbox connects to the intake plenum, so that's one to watch out for. -TD
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 160
Likes: 2
From: USA
Geezzz, you guys are too careful. Most of the bad press about screwing up a motor by powerwashing it came from the old days when rubber and plastic parts would dry rot a lot easier, allowing water into electronic contacts, etc. Most of the vehicles now'a days have way better harness connectors with rubber seals, etc. I spray the heck out of two 90s Rangers every year, A 95 Escort, and a few other vehicles with no problems at all. Like I said, the only thing I avoid is getting too much water into the alternator. Don't get me wrong, I get it wet...just don't hold the powerwasher on it for more than a few seconds. If the engine doesn't have a distributor (which most modern vehicles don't) then that's one less thing to worry about too. The coil packs are pretty much sealed water tight. Only problem you might have is if the plug wires are dry rotted or you didn't properly greese inside the boots.
Now the disclaimer: When you mess up your motor don't blame me. I'm an idiot and you probably shouldn't follow my advice.
Now the disclaimer: When you mess up your motor don't blame me. I'm an idiot and you probably shouldn't follow my advice.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 341
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From: eastern Ma
Power Washing
Years ago I used to steam clean my engine at work. Just had to cover the carb, and put a plastic bag over the distributor, and be careful. I always disconnected the battery, and waited at least 4 hours for it to dry out. The last time I did it in the driveway on an '85. and had to be towed to an auto electric place. Cleaned out my engine, and my wallet at the same time. Did in my ignition module, and another sensor. The experience cost me hundreds. Now I just clean it by hand, and keep ahead of valve cover gaskets. First sign of a leak, and they get replaced. I'm sure some people clean their engine with no problems. I don't think I'll try it again though. A clean rag and gunk can keep you ahead of it.
There are places that clean them for you. It doesn't cost too much, and they take the risk.
I agree on the gloves. I get them at medical supply places. They really spare your hands. I worked on my rig all day yesterday, and when I took off the gloves, my hands were still clean.
There are places that clean them for you. It doesn't cost too much, and they take the risk.
I agree on the gloves. I get them at medical supply places. They really spare your hands. I worked on my rig all day yesterday, and when I took off the gloves, my hands were still clean.