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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

What would you do?

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Old Jun 18, 2004 | 04:16 PM
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aguylookingforadvice
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What would you do?

Good afternoon. I have been negotiating with a gentlemen who is selling a 1986 Ford F-150 4X4. He's asking $3000 for the truck. In the ad posted he explains that it has a straight 6 (rebuilt), new 4" lifts on the body, 38" wheels, new paint, runs strong, etc. He sent me some pics and the truck looks awesome (new paint, and centerline wheels). Here's the part that I'm on the fence about..the truck is not currently registered. It looks like he had a temporary registration tag on the window at one point. The license plates do not have and tags on it as well? When I asked him about it he said that he has not had time to get it smogged? He offered to reduce the price by $300 - $400 if I were to take the truck myself and get it smogged. He also mentioned that I would "probably" need to replace the hubs on the front of the truck? Any idea what that would cost? If you have any input/advice I would really appreciate it. I'm simply looking for a truck to pull a boat and get to some of my favorite fishing spots. Thanks for reading!
 
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Old Jun 18, 2004 | 07:44 PM
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That seems kind of high for an '86 with a 6-banger in it. $1200-1500 would be more like it. Here's why:

I bought an '82 with a 400-4speed 4X4 for $1800. I sold the spare wheels, trans, transfer case, centers, linkage that came with it for $600, so I ended up getting the truck for $1200. A deal, or so I thought.

Well since then, I had to put (4) ball joints, rotors, calipers, radius arm bushings, fix the horn, align it, brakes, fuel line, rebuild the carb, fix wipers, fix heater, new battery, brake hoses, bleed brakes, re-weld 4WD shifter on trans, re-attach front shock, tighten up dozens of loose bolts, front main seal, replace stereo, bolt down seat, retighten all the body lift mounts, among other things.

Today I found out I need new gas tank straps and a top rear shock mount that busted off. Also the gas gauge sending unit is 1/4 tank off and I ran out of gas the first tank full- as the gauge said 1/4 tank when it was empty. And I just happened to have my 5-year old with me, at night, in a freezing rainstorm in the winter.

The ball joints I did outside last winter in 15 degree weather.

The radius arm bushings I did this week in oppressive 85 degree heat and high humidity.

And to boot the glove box door lock broke, wouldn't close, so I removed it, and the cardboard glove compartment itself caved inside the dash as there were tools in there- so I removed that too- now I have a hole where the glovebox was and need a new glove door.

And my distributor is still stuck fast so I have to run PREMIUM at all times at $2.05 a gallon- getting 12 mpg last I checked. The converter is missing so the truck won't smog- but being I use it so little if I'm under 5000 miles a year I am exempt- one good thing.

Your truck will need lots of work most likely too, and as you can see, you want to get it as cheap as possible as at that age, many of the same things will be wrong with it. And they ain't easy to fix- I was a mechanic for 12 years and have the tools, and it's still a bitch.

As you can see I really didn't get a killer deal for $1200, just a truck that needed lots of work down the road and the owner didn't know his wrench sizes- and what he did fix he messed up- and I have to do over.

If you pay $3000 for that truck and have many of these same problems, you'll feel ripped off.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2004 | 08:10 PM
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check value on www.nada.com
 
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Old Jun 18, 2004 | 08:38 PM
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Maybe it wouldn't pass the smog test and that's why he wants to get rid of it. And if that's the case, the cost to pass it could run you quite a bit, who knows--maybe you'll be buying a truck that your state won't let you run on the street.... Look into the smog regulations in your state to see what waivers they have (IF they have ANY)in place in case it doesn't pass (ie, $ towards work on emissions systems you put in so you can still run the truck). Maybe instead, have as a stipulation for the sale that you buy it after he smogs it.

Also, offering to reduce by $300-$400 if you smog it seems a bit generous for a test that costs usually around $50.

Replacing the hubs....is he talking about the locking hubs ($130 maybe), or the entire hub/rotor asssembly (mucho dinero)? Maybe there's a problem with the 4x4? And, oh, you can't put it in 4 wheel drive during the test drive because of a minor "locking hub problem".

As cantedvalveford says, things go on these trucks, just due to the ~20 years they've been on the road. In the 4 years I've had my truck, I've changed just about every part in the engine compartment beyond the heads (valve covers, gaskets, starter, water pump, starter solenoid, battery, ignition module, carb rebuild, plugs, wires, cap, radiator, radiator hoses, pcv, vacuum hoses, master cylinder....) the whole rear drum assembly, e-brake cables, shocks, shock mounts, leaf spring mounts, an entire spindle and hub asembly, wiring, lights, etc, etc, etc,.... You get the picture.

Just my .02

Good luck!
 
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