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Locking Hubs

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Old Jun 17, 2004 | 08:39 AM
  #1  
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A Dodge
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From: NE Ohio
Locking Hubs

First Post!

I have an '01 F-250 SD, short bed, cab & 1/2 4x4 V10 with about 57,000 miles on it. It has auto locking hubs that have become almost impossible to manually adjust from auto to lock position or back without using pliers, which ruins the plastic. How big a deal are these to take apart and lube or whatever is wrong?
Another question(s), are these vacuum operated and does the group find them to be generally reliable?

Thanks for your time.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2004 | 08:48 AM
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At under 100K miles my 99 diesel f250 driver side lock out was sticking really bad. I had a budy take it apart and clean it but by 150K miles it was shot and quit working. After we replaced the front end (ball joints, rotors, callipers, u-joints, and axle seals), the passenger side lock out fell off going down the road (it was not missed!).

I bought a set of Warn's at NAPA and they set me back about $170. If I were to buy them again I'd buy a set of Warn Premiums here,

http://www.tellico4x4.com/catalog/pr...17a86a6e87&404

Since about 135K miles my four low has stopped working due to vacume seals being shot, $420 to fix at Ford. My next truck will have the manual 4x4 system especially since all last winter I had to get out of the truck anyways.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2004 | 09:47 AM
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78fordman
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mine stuck after i got my truck stuck, but i just removed them and then cleaned them and greased them and they are fine. I have good luck with them, and you always have the lock feature just in case.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2004 | 11:09 AM
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Big Orn
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Originally Posted by A Dodge
Another question(s), are these vacuum operated and does the group find them to be generally reliable?
Yes, they are vac operated and the mechanics are as reliable as any. For the most part, though, you can't go wrong with the manual locks.

FYI - I have the ESOF and have had no problems, but I do use them quite often.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2004 | 01:50 PM
  #5  
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I've had two trucks with the electronic four wheel drive and both have had problems. At 35K miles my old 99 F150 was stuck in four low, mad motor replaced under warranty, $700 job. Traded in at 46K for F250 and no problems after the fix.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2004 | 09:09 PM
  #6  
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jhemr
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From: KS
Took my auto hubs off and put a set of new Ford
manual hubs on..... no problems.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2004 | 11:02 PM
  #7  
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the best way (I've found) to take care of the hubs is everyknow and then pull nthe snap ring and pull them out put some grease on the inside splines and the outside splines and the seal. reinstall. I do this eveytime i go through lots of deep mud or water.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2004 | 11:38 PM
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BODEAN886
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From: western pa.
I have a 2000 f-350 4x4,the hubs were getting tough to select from auto to manual.I read on this forum to take off snap ring,then remove hub assy. and soak in a can of atf for awhile, then reinstall. It worked ,they operate easy now.There is a diaphragm in the hub,and seems to be an o-ring around the selector itself.The atf gets in there and lubes the o-ring.The hubs have several places to leak vaccum:the axle seal,o-ring around wheel bearing assy.,o-ring on hub outside and diaphrapm.If you have the front end apart for other maint. ck these for damage.You also can disconnect vaccum line going in to hub and ck leak down with vaccum pump to isolate which side is leaking.Most problems with the auto hubs are vaccum leaks.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2004 | 09:03 AM
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new to site.I have 2000 f350 with atuo hubs, 7.3, auto tranny. I can only turn hub on left side with pliers. Hubs are not engauging unless turned to manual. apparently one hubs is not unlocking at times. Hubs can be replaced for my cost 100.00 per side apparently their are different hubs for asb braking on all wheels. Am i better off to to replace with manual or ford auto lock again. I also have 97 f250 ps manual 5spd flatbead feed truck bought used and it already had manual hubs(usually this truck is never unlocked) How do you trouble shoot auto hubs. I never dreamed they could be operated by vacuum( I did not think diesels even produced vacuum) but sure enough there is a line that probably is a vaccum line in close proximity to the brake line. any help appreciated.
 
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