Can anyone make a recommendation for upgrading the brake system on my '66 f100? Specifically, I am looking to add a booster to the system. The drums work well (as well as they were designed to anyway) so I don't know if I want to upgrade to disk brakes. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.

 

Have you done a search on disc brakes? Do so, in this forum, and you will find a wealth of information!

 

Go get a booster and MC for a 1969 F250 with power drum brakes. Parts catalogs will list a couple of options, but I am pretty sure this was available.

The only problem is the push rod from the brake pedal to the booster, which may need to be shortened or lengthened. 2ndmouse recently found an adjustible clutch push rod worked for him. I would just cut off if too long, or cut, thread, and add a threaded coupling if too short.

Of course, you will then have a dual chamber master cylinder. I cannot imagine going to the trouble to install the older, single chamber MC with a booster. First thing you know, all that extra power will blow a line, and since your old system is single chamber, you have NO brakes at all when that happens. There is a reason why the Feds required dual chamber brake systems in 67 -- safety.

You will need proportioning valve -- if you go the junk yard route, you might be able to find a prop valve for a drum-drum setup off a 67-72 pickup. Or you can get an adjustible one (Wilwood makes for $40-$50 or so).

There is also the issue of residual pressure. Drum brakes like to retain 10lbs of pressure in the lines to keep the cylinders from retracting in the drums. The old systems had a residual valve in the MC. I am not certain if these are present in the 69 dual chamber MC -- I think not. Later the residual valves were in the prop valve. I think the best option would be to find a stock prop valve from a old truck. But if you go the adjustible prop valve route, you can always add a residual pressure valve into the line later if the brakes are requiring too much pumping.

Spongy brakes that never firm up === air in lines. Need to Pump brakes but eventually a hard pedal == lack of sufficient residual pressure.

http://www.mpbrakes.com/mpfaqvalving.htm

Do the dual chamber master for sure. I did a disc brake swap, keeping manual and am very happy -- the added stopping power of the new disc setup is so much better than the old setup that I didn't bother to add a booster. I have one from a donor truck right here in my shed, but am not going to use it, as I like the less cluttered look under the hood.

 

I ahve that prop valve ya sent me Cd, adjusting it out a bit I got it to brake nice and smooth.

I have to pump the brakes at least 3 times to have a full firm pedal. you can slow down on the first stroke, the second you have a reasonably good pedal and the third ya got a full hard pedal.

is this sorta normal in an older setup or should i put in residual valves also?

I have manual brakes on my little nissan I have hard brake first stroke. I noticed that the other day about the 250, but I was happy to have smooth brakes I didnt give the 2-3 pumps due consideration.

 

If you have bled them properly, then the next thing you need to do is to pull the shoes closer to the drums. Even one wheel slightly too far off will give dramatic results when it is finally adjusted properly.

 

I did back the rears off (for compensation) before i did the MC conversion... I'll readjust em.