Maybe I have procrastinated, (Ihave had mine since February) but, after seeing the other predator blues post I thought I should start working on this issue.

I really like mine....but, I don't feel like the two lower settings do much. In fact, for measured MPG I get better on the stock setting and better on the 80hp setting. About the same on the highest setting. Also, it seems like the two lower settings have less power than stock.

Kinda hard to get excited about it though as I spend most of my time at 80hp.

BUT, I will be towing my 5th wheel in October and I would like to get things right well before then.

Any suggestions???

Thanks

 

Guess you saw my post. It's funny I can't get the 80hp program to work with my truck. 60hp works but there is no power till I get to about 1800-2000rpm then it seems like nitros went off. The tow 40hp setting is very sluggish and frankly the truck tow better in stock settings. I emailed both tech support at Motorhaven and Diablo Sport, with words my original post yesterday, haven't heard back as of yet. At this point I'm researching flip chips. I'll let you know if I hear anything more.

Thanks

 

you mention the two lower settings. Depending on which predatory you purchased, they can be different. Mine has an altitude program(useless to me) a 40 hp towing program, 60hp,85hp, and 100hp. The 60 is my favorite, plenty of power, no EGT issues and it tows very well in my experience. The 40 sucks, i'm sure it makes a small difference but not large enough to warrant taking up one of the 5 settings. 85hp feels the same to me as the 100 with lower EGT's. 100 in nice but just feels like the engine is having a hard time with the advance in the timing. Still not a bad investment considering over all it got better reviews than your other option the SCMT and worse case scenario at least you've got the code reader. If you are really not happy with the programmer though, send it in and have them look at it or possibly revise it, you never know until you try... Good luck to both of you guys. I'm sticking with mine until after warranty, and then its a flip chip for me.....

 

I updated mine to the r19b and I am not that happy with it now. The tunes are all milder except for the 60hp. The 100hp is no different than the 85hp in my opinion. Before the update my 100hp was really aggressive and I liked it alot more.

 

FoMoCo136,
I've noticed that quite a few poeple even with identical revisions are having different experiences with the tuners, and I have to assume it holds true to the SCMT. I think the different ECU codes on each truck have something to do with that. You are the first I've came in contact with that had the r19b revision. It is quite possible that the same revision on someone elses truck might actually be an improvement. I think they probably progam these things to be an improvement over stock for all the different variaty of ECU codes, and some will gain more than others... I don't know for sure, but it makes sense to me. If yours was running better before, I would definately redownload the previous revision though.

 

I have been happy with my predator, I generally run with the 40 towing, I CANT GET RID OF THAT DERN FLUTTER, and it does not do it until the 60hp. I just put a new turbo on it, so I do not want that flutter to shorten the life so I keep it down some. I agree with the adv. timing on the 100hp setting, I have run the 80 also and it seems like a little too much for my truck stressing tastes. I just want her to last...I go easy with her. But I do like to have the power when I want it....

 

I'm having the same problems as you fed, all of the tunes below 85 stink. This has been the case since the r19(x) revisions came out. When I first bought mine last summer the 60 horse setting had all kinds of power. Now it is so doggy I can't stand it.

DS has been almost no help. Their customer service really leaves a lot to be desired.

 

This is kinda off the subject, but have you guys tried resetting the computer?? Every 2-3 months I do it to mine. I usually get better fuel economy and a little more power out of it. I can't tell you why, It was suggested to me some time ago to do this, and It does work. Disconnect both batteries and then turn the lights on for about 10 to 15 seconds to completely drain the computer and then see if she runs better. Part that sucks though is resetting all your radio station.....

 

as far as i know with the newer trucks you cant reset the computer just by disconecting the batteries. Also, what good would turning on the headlights with the batteries disconected do?

 

turning the headlamps on while the batteries are disconnected draws all residual power out of the computer until it is gone (no power left at all in any of the circuits) I'm not one to argue but it makes sense to me that if you deny the computures memory power, that it loses its memory and has to start from scratch upon the re-application of power. Like I said though, i don't know for sure why, but after doing it myself 3-4 times now, personally I see a difference in both fuel economy and performance. Its better on fuel and seems to run smoother afterwards... I think once the computer gets its bearings after the powerdown, that it becomes more intune with your driving habits again. Like I said though, I think it works, maybe it is like a plecebo??

 

driving habbits yes, you have a point there. Shift points (to an extent) and fuel advance, depending on how agressevly you drive can be learned by the computer. It wont erase any codes however.

 

Hey guys, In computers there are 4 types of memory chips:

1) ROM chip----Read Only Memory, preprogrammed and cannot be erased, just replaced (the chip)
2) PROM (programmable read-only memory) is a ROM memory chip on which data can be written only once. Once a program has been written onto a PROM, it remains there forever
3) EPROM (erasable programmable read-only memory) is an ultraviolet light erasable PROM. This type of ROM is field-programmable and can be re-written by first erasing the stored data by exposing the internal circuitry to ultraviolet light. A PROM Burner is also required to re-programme this type of ROM.
4) EEPROM or E2PROM (electrically erasable programmable read-only memory) is an electrically erasable PROM. The most common EEPROM is the FlashPROM. It can be re-programmed by switching the electrical memory component into the writing mode while still an integral part of the computer circuitry. This is the chip that can be "erased" by pulling the battery cables. Also what is rewritten with a "Programmer Unit" ie. Preditor. This is also the one we swear at when we are typing on the computer, it crashes and we loose all our hard work. Power down....work gone....

The headlights, or some other source of electrical current drain is needed to "empty" the capisitors on the motherboard. (That is why when you turn off the power switch to your computer it takes a little while for the LED's to go out) The "Caps" can hold an electrical charge for years even when the power is off and or unplugged. Don't mess with your TV...those caps hold enough power to do some serious damage, some large electric motors too.
The Rom chip holds the stock program or basis from where to begin anew, I would suppose that this ROM chip downloads the original program to a EEPROM chip that is written to by our driving habbits.(the learning mode) There is a different chip somewhere in there that hold all the codes and tells the dealers if there has EVER been a program or chip installed. (probably an EEPROM) we just can't get at it to clear it.

I hope this has been as clear as mud, I know I'm confused :-?
Ron

 

i'm not a computer guy, but all that made sense to me. I never knew how it worked but you explained it well. I think the programmers can and do erase all tracks of themselves as far as the dealer is concerned. I had a HPOP leaking into my V and took it back to the dealer, without any programs installed, and they mentioned nothing to me about whether I had run a chip or programmer. I'm sure if they knew that I had they would have tried to make me pay for the repair. A chip i'm not sure about. Thanks for the information

 

Not knowing from a personal experience but..... I was talking with Dale from TYMAR last week and unless I completely misunderstood him, he said that if any programer or chip was installed and subsequently removed the dealer can pull a code scan and uncover the install.<not a quote> just repeating what I think I heard.

Ron

 

completely possible.....