Water killed engine
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Royal Oak, MI
Okay, hopefully people are still reading this thread.... but the shop has a question that somebody here has to know the answer to.
Has the timing chains had any revisions since 2002 such that a manual covering up to the 2002 4.0 SOHC would be acceptable for assembling a 2004 version?
He's wanting to be a bit cautious before he assembles to make sure the tension specs and all that are equivalent.
Has the timing chains had any revisions since 2002 such that a manual covering up to the 2002 4.0 SOHC would be acceptable for assembling a 2004 version?
He's wanting to be a bit cautious before he assembles to make sure the tension specs and all that are equivalent.
New User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 11
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From: Sylacauga, AL
Talked to a Ford tech. friend of mine and he says it is the same. I personally have know idea. I've never pretended or claimed to be a mechanic, but I would trust my life to this guy. I think. If anyone has difinitive answers then please step up. Anyways, Please keep us up to date about the engine and the hopefull progress.
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: topeka
sometimes people get referred to www.flatratetech.com for highly specific ford issues.
Not a member there myself.
I know the mods dont' like cross posting in different forums but a questoin as specific as that, can't see any reason not to post it in the 4.0L forum, but tht's just me.
Not a member there myself.
I know the mods dont' like cross posting in different forums but a questoin as specific as that, can't see any reason not to post it in the 4.0L forum, but tht's just me.
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Yorba Linda CA
We had a motor come in that did the same thing. ingested water.. no, water doesnt compress and most likely caused the engine stop... good news is that I doubt it did any real damage. This motor did bend a rod but that was it. yank the spark plugs out and turn it over (by hand) to get rid of the water in the cylinders (take note which one shoots water out) and then put a shot of WD-40 into the cylinder via the spark plug hole to keep it from rusting and lube the rings and cylinder wall.. then crank it over a few times by hand to see if it acting weird (seizing, etc...) and if not, replace the spark plugs and try to start it. Listen very carefully for any strange engine noise and if it makes none, you are golden.. any unusual noise will facilitate engine tear down and inspection.
You will want to do this soon so the bores dont rust.. that happens in a hurry.
Let me know how it goes and good luck.
Brett
You will want to do this soon so the bores dont rust.. that happens in a hurry.
Let me know how it goes and good luck.
Brett
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Royal Oak, MI
Well the shop has had the engine torn down for a few days now, and all that was wrong was 3 bent rods (the ones that happened to be going up...). Everything else looks perfect and spins fine, so he's just trying to make sure he knows how to set it up correctly once the replacement parts come in.
BTW one of the rods was bent bad enough to seize the engine with the plugs out, shop said that it was hitting on the crank, although the crank is okay.
BTW one of the rods was bent bad enough to seize the engine with the plugs out, shop said that it was hitting on the crank, although the crank is okay.
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Yorba Linda CA
Originally Posted by smandzak
Well the shop has had the engine torn down for a few days now, and all that was wrong was 3 bent rods (the ones that happened to be going up...). Everything else looks perfect and spins fine, so he's just trying to make sure he knows how to set it up correctly once the replacement parts come in.
BTW one of the rods was bent bad enough to seize the engine with the plugs out, shop said that it was hitting on the crank, although the crank is okay.
BTW one of the rods was bent bad enough to seize the engine with the plugs out, shop said that it was hitting on the crank, although the crank is okay.
Yep, the motor wasnt quite as bad when we got to it (0nly 1 bent rod on the one we worked on) but usually hydraulicing the motor wont kill it beyond repair in a stock engine (my boss had seen quite a bit of this coming from iowa and that was what he said was wrong).
"he's just trying to make sure he knows how to set it up correctly once the replacement parts come in."
Huh???? what exactly is he trying to set up correctly? Kinda brainless, make sure the rods weigh the same (and balance the same) press the old pistons off the old rods, put them on the new ones.. and reassemble. Not hard and dont let him tell you otherwise.
Cheers
Bdd
PS Make sure you post the pics of the old rods for posperity!!!
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Royal Oak, MI
Originally Posted by Brettddglas
Huh???? what exactly is he trying to set up correctly? Kinda brainless, make sure the rods weigh the same (and balance the same) press the old pistons off the old rods, put them on the new ones.. and reassemble. Not hard and dont let him tell you otherwise.
Originally Posted by Brettddglas
PS Make sure you post the pics of the old rods for posperity!!!
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