I'll be picking up my second Ford truck (after 5 years without one) next friday and I'm getting all kinds of ideas for mods to do. I've always wanted to over-build an engine for durability and reliability. From what I've read, the majority of engine wear occurs during a cold-start. Pre-oilers are supposed to build oil pressure before you bump the engine thereby severely reducing wear, but they're expensive. Any thoughts?
P.S. 1978 F-150 351M I think.


EDIT: Here's an example:
http://www.pre-luber.com/

 

A pre-oiler is a great idea. Maybe overkill, but can't hurt. There was a thread on pre-oilers, maybe last fall (on this site or was it the oil guy site, I think here). May try a search.

Also consider oil pan heaters. I don't absolutely have to, but over night in the winter I plug in my 250 watt oil pan heater (heating pad). Only $65 from Wolverine:
http://www.janyce.com/+wolver/heat.html

 

I live in the Seattle area, so cold oil isn't really a problem. I'm more concerned with the fact that the truck won't be driven daily and may sit for up to a week. In this case, I worry that dry bearings and might cause premature wear and tear.

It looks like the electric pump can be purchased separately from the kit, and I can most likely get all the hoses and fittings for much cheaper. I won't need the controller, either. I can just hook up a bosch relay and a momentary switch and hold it down for 20 seconds before start-up.

 

That's about $500. I think the other one was a lot cheaper and would work as well. Maybe simpler installation too.

See thread (mainly last three posts):
http://www.fordtrucks.com/forums/sho...hreadid=185356

See website:
http://www.accusump.com/

 

The electric motor and pump may cause trouble and leaks over time. Check out,www.MasterLube.net. I installed the 3-quart accumulator but added a "modified" sandwitch oil filter adapter, low pressure fuel pump switch,electronic time delay timer, center console pressure gauge, 2 sending units one for accumulator and one for engine oil pressure,(switchable), normally open switch and a red/green LED. This system will build oil pressure to 16 psi then the timer begins for 4 seconds longer, engine oil pressure goes to 26 psi, LED goes from red to green, "GO".This system works automatically and will preoil if you sat for months or seconds with 5 wt. oil or 90 wt. oil
in the engine, hot climates or snow. As I have a,( don't get mad) Rover Discovery that had long dry cold starts and all the bearings were down to copper, I installed this system before installing the new 4.6 litre engine. Later this year I'll install another system to my 68 F-250. This system "wowed" the owner of MasterLube and he's an electronics person. I don't have to prefill the oil filter before installing as the preoiler will do it fore me, I takes more time until all air is displaced in the filter and oil passages.
Another reply stated "overkill" , well I ran my last FE to 6,000 rpm and 479,000 hard miles with a aircraft accumulator for preoiler, your decision. Carl. ..........o&o>..........

 

So, for the 26 psi indicator, did you use another fuel pressure switch, or some other method?

The accumulator method seems to be the most widely made, is it superior simply due to the fact that it's less complex?

 

I put together my own preluber a few years ago and have never had a problem. A good source for a sealed 12VDC pump motor unit is lawn tractors. I used hydraulic hoses and fittings and never have had a leak. A relay and momentary switch or one with a cover to ensure you don't leave it on. When you start up after a day its maybe 20 seconds to get pressure, after a week a lot longer. When I get the truck out of storage in the spring it can be a minute or two.
I put it together for about $150cdn. using parts that were overkill. Good luck with the project.

John.

 

Kynetx; the pressure reading I get of 26 # is what is built up from the time the fuel cut-off switch opens, (16 psi) and 4 seconds delay from timer. The engine runs at 48 psi so the accumulator has a pressure of 48 psi, 1 1/2 qt. oil and 1 1/2qt. air space. A shorter time delay will get me less pressure increase as will a longer delay a higher pressure. I get 6-8 prelubes on a fully charged accumlator with a cold engine with 48 psi in accumulator. The 4 seconds will allow the bearings to squirt oil out, nice and wet to sling on the cam at time of start up. What can I add? This system works for me, I'm a Licensed aircraft mechanic and love engines.

 

77460, is the pump you reference a hydraulic pump? Where do you pull the oil from?

Beemer, if I understand you, you're calculating the 26 psi figure based on duration or precharging... do external factors like temperature affect it?

Oh, and thanks for the information!

 

I'm using a sealed positive displacement gear style pump. Suction is off the oil pan drain plug with a Tee fitting allowing normal draining. I mounted the pump on the passenger side frame with the discharge routed up to the back of the block tying in to where the oil pressure gauge is located. I found mine used in a local buy and sell paper but have seen similar types at lawn tractor shops, TSC stores some heavy equipment shops. Paying over $400US was not in my budget for the pre-packaged models but I've had no problems in the years I've run mine...............other then the odd looks when I first fire it up.

John.

 

Kynetx, yes there is a pressure difference when the oil is thick as in a cold start as the oil flows slower and the timer is set at 4 seconds. The pressure difference between cold and hot restarts is about 8 psi, the 26 psi is my cold start pressure. On a hot restart the oil is thinner and oil passages full, (no drain back) so the oil pressure will rise faster during the 4 second delay. The timer has flip switches and a pot that can be set from .10 second to hours, my system works on 4 seconds as this allows a "wet" prelube and the ability to cycle 5 cold and 12 hot restarts. MasterLube has a hollow steel ball that floats, if you drain all the oil in the accumulator the ball will seal off the cylinder to prevent charge air or gas from entering the engine. Carl ......o&o>.......

 

77460ford, you stated that the suction or inlet to the gear pump is from the pan drain. This would allow any dirt or other bad things in the sump to be pumped directly into your engine. If you tap off and return oil thru a sandwitch filter adapter all oil will be filtered before entering the engine. Carl. ..............o&o>................................ .....

 

I installed the 3qt. Accusump on my 78 Ford 400 and it works great (sandwich oil adaptor and electric valve). It was rather expensive, but I've had it for ~ 2 years now and my oil pressure is good and no clacking or hesitation on starts. I typically get 40 psi on initial charge (overnight or weeks of sitting) and about 60 psi if I charge a couple of minutes after cold startup (by charge I mean powering the accusump and discharging oil into the system). The oil does flow slower in the winter, but I still get 40psi @ startup. The only drawback is my oil changes require 8-9 qts of oil...$$$$. My engine idles cold @ 80psi and warm @ 30psi. I typically drive my truck once a week, so the system helps. Hope this helps,

Chris

P.S. if buying the oil filter adaptor, also buy the Ford MotorSports 90 degree filter adaptor so you can keep using big filters (I had to).

 

unreng; I ran a floating piston accumulator in a 462" AMX until the piston stuck and wiper seal broke, this gave me Co2 in the motor at 6,400 rpm at the old Fremont drag strip. Crank gone, 3 rods gone, 1 head gone as was my pride and wallet. This was an aircraft accumulator I got from work.This is why I used a MasterLube accumulator without a piston but a hollow steel ball that floats and seals off the precharge should the accumulator empty. When I do an oil change I'll cycle the system until the accumulator is empty them add 1/2 quart new oil then repressure and cycle the system again, this flushes the accumulator and line to filter adapter completly.The accumulator must be mounted vertical for the ball to work. In the previous post I didn't mention that there were two relays in the system with the delay timer and a electric valve. Simple is less to go wrong in accumulators, my .02 cents. Carl.
.................................................. ...........................o&o>...................

 

So, do these systems have to be loaded with a charge of air pressure to work? If so, do I need to visit a compressor every few days?