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Whats up Guys. I nkow I started a post for the warn auto locking hubs and we didn't have any luck, but maybe someone with a different brand will be able to come to the rescue.
I'm looking to find a set of "Auto" / "Lock" locking hubs for my 99 F250 PSD. If anyone can help let me know. I don't really want to do the borring old factory ones. Thanks.
Just wondering - but why not just go with regular aftermarket lock - free hubs?? I thought that the vac. hubs tend to be problematic? Not locking when you want them to, then sometimes sticking and not unlocking too, etc.....
I haven't fully decided yet, but I might just run with Warn hubs. I really would like to keep it that I have auto locking so that I can just hit the button while i"m inside the truck and have some form of 4x4 available. I know that its not the perfect 4x4 that you get by locking the hubs in yourself, but in the middle of the winter when I need to just get otu of somethign small it would be nice.. (i'm from Michigan). But if I don't have any way to do it thats going to last then I'll just get the Warn ones.
You can leave the manual hubs locked in when in 2wd and it won't hurt anything, then just put the t-case in 4x4 when you need it. Some guys in snow country leave thier hubs locked all winter so they don't have to keep getting out to lock and unlock them. The only side effect is a little extra wear on the frontend and a little decrease in gas mileage.
Ya, that is very true. I was thinking about that, but didn't know how it would effect my driving in 4x2 down the expressway and stuff, but I guess I can find out. And its not like if I get them that I'm spending a grand or something so I can replace them if I really dislike them. Nothing like an item to sell on ebay, lol.
I haven't talked to to many people who lke the automatic hubs, just one more thing to break, The vacuum ones on the 99's are a real piece of #$&p. Even service mechanics have said "give me a stick on the floor and a **** on the wheel anytime" I had mine in the shop every fall for three years, warranty ran out, now I just lock them in every fall and turn them out every spring. If I had the money I would sell the truck and get me one with manual everything, including the transmission.
I am new on this 4 x 4. I keep the **** on unlock position all the time, my question is, after I switch the selector (incab) to 4 x 4 High how will I know if the front differential is actually engaged ? Now, when I switch (incab) in 4 x 4 LOW I can hear a thump and the vehicle is more aggressive. I have a 2000 Excursion psd.
IMO I will never own another set of automatic hubs. I used to own a "bowtie" truck with the auto front hubs. (electrically operated thermal element). Going down a red wet clay road downhill, I stopped to clear a tree out of the road. Shut it off, stuck it in 1st, set the e-brake and got out. After 20 or so seconds, the thermal actuator cooled off, and the front hubs unlocked. Truck went skidding downhill with the rear tires locked and the fronts rolling. My 97 PSD is manual. Won't ever change 'em.
Ya, I'm leaning more so towards putting the Warn manual locking hubs in for a few reason. One cause of all the help you guys are being, Two because I want something thats strong and looks good, and Three I hear that if you leave them on free and hit 4x4 Low it sends all the power to the back wheels and makes the tourqe that comes out of that just crazy. What u guys think on that last point?
D
jamesj: when you shift your 4x4 High on inside your truck and the lockers are on auto, yes you do get the front to lock in. However its not fully locked in. Its more like a one wheel wonder. If your looking for both wheels to do their job you need to get out and lock them yourself. As for the 4x4 Low, are you in Neutral when your shifting it in? In Drive? hopefully not moving when u do it right?
Last edited by ReserectedSD; Jun 8, 2004 at 08:32 AM.
ReserectedSD - you are right about the 4-low thing - you can get the gear reduction without having the front wheels pulling. It is VERY handy if you're trying to back a heavy trailer around and don't want the front end binding up all the time, but need the low gear.
RESERECTEDSD, when I switch to low 4 x4 I have the trans in neutral, the light will not come on if the gear is on other position. Also the trans has to be in neutral when swtiching it off. Thank you for the info about the 4 x4 high.
How much is the Warn anyway, and how difficult is it to change it.
The Warn hubs that I found are the regular ones, I guess they have a set thats a step up to, but unless your really into wheeling i hear its not worth it. But the ones I am probably getting the set is like 140 or something. Didn't really do any hunting around for them yet. Figured I'd find out if thats what I wanted before I wasted the time w/ finding prices. As for how hard it would be to take yours out and put a set in, I don't think it should be very hard. Although I havn't taken a set out thats been in good condition before. Mine were messed up cause of the fire, so I didn't have to be all nice about it if you know what I mean, . Plus I would assume they'd give you some kind of instructions....
ReserectedSD - you are right about the 4-low thing - you can get the gear reduction without having the front wheels pulling. It is VERY handy if you're trying to back a heavy trailer around and don't want the front end binding up all the time, but need the low gear.
lol, i never even thought about the funtional part of using it to back a heavy trailor, I was just thinking about the play part of it.. lol.. but good pointing that out. I'm sure it would come in very useful! And since me and the guys at the shop want to get a 30 foot car halling trailor thats more good advice!