Not enough braking power
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 346
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From: Eastern Virginia
The brakes on my '75 F150 are not very good, too. I have replaced everything except the lines and the proportioning valve. I think i'll give it a try. On my truck when i'm pulling a trailer I have to step on them so hard to get it to attempt to slow down that the brake light comes on. It goes back off when you release the pedal, though.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 423
From: Long Island USA
Originally Posted by 71LTD390
The brakes on my '75 F150 are not very good, too. I have replaced everything except the lines and the proportioning valve. I think i'll give it a try. On my truck when i'm pulling a trailer I have to step on them so hard to get it to attempt to slow down that the brake light comes on. It goes back off when you release the pedal, though.
The fact that the light is coming on means the valve is working, I would think.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,335
Likes: 1
From: waco
Just for grins pull the master cylinder loose from the booster. Don't worry about the break lines, just the 2 9/16 nuts. Pull the master cylinder forward, and pull out the little rod that goes from the booster to the master cylinder. There is a little helmet shaped nut on it that is adjustable. Turn the nut out a couple of turns and put it back together. Tell us what happens to your breaks.
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 544
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my brakes seem to not grab enough either. $1300 brake job and i feel like if i had to romp on them on the freeway that i might climb sombody. they didn't replace the booster. how do i check it without having to leave my truck at the shop for a day?
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 490
Likes: 1
From: Phx, AZ
i hooked up a gage to the master and the back was 700 psi and the front was 1200 psi. i also hooked it up after the prop valve in the rear and it was 600 psi. does anyone know what psi it should be at the master and after the prop valve.
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