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Old Jun 2, 2004 | 11:23 AM
  #1  
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Automatic hardomatic

So I have this 1978 F-150 Ford truck right? I'm told by many people that a c6 will bolt up to the 351m motor right? But I'm not told that it is nearly impossible to put a c6 transmission in this truck. Last night My dad broke the bell housing and almost his hand trying to get the bell housing bolts tightened down. We had to use about 3 extensions and three u joints on the ratchet only to have enough room to swing the ratchet one clik at a time. on top of all that we had to plasma cut the original crossmember to the transmission to get the c6 to fit under the truck. I don't know about you guys but I'm almost sick of my truck and transmissions not fitting. These trucks have serious problems with room under the truck to put in anything. I don't know how any body can do this with out a lift,the body taken off and about 4 other guys to help. plus all the air tools ever made. I just need to let off some steam. Can any help me out? advice on an eaiser way to do this? (without costing me a arm and a leg )The truck originaly had a borg warner 4 spd with a granny low 1st gear. And it has a 2 peice driveshaft which really makes this hard because with a c6 in the truck the 1st drive shaft will have to be about 3 in long it's like 83in from the tail shaft to the diff. why did ford ever put a 2 piece drive shaft in these trucks? whats the point? and can i change to a 1 piece leagaly? I know its alot of questions but please try to help. thanks
 
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Old Jun 2, 2004 | 11:55 AM
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I haven't done a conversion but I've changed several C6's and never had that much trouble. The C6 crossmember is very simple with two bolts holding it in on each side of the frame. Not sure about the manual one. Long socket extensions and a swivel joint should be all you need. 6 bolts.

Are you sure the converter was seated? If you draw the tranny up with the bolts and it's not seated you will damage things.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2004 | 02:18 PM
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78,
I have done too many C4s and C6s and FMXs. The bell housing bolts are tough. The cross member can be difficult. Everything should fit easily though? I'm uneasy about your situation. Your doing something different from what I've done? The two-piece shaft was for the C4 arrangement and the one-piece was for the C6, I think? That's what I've seen anyways. I am talking strictly about 1/2 ton 2WD.
Calm down, the first time is always the hardest!
KingFisher
 
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Old Jun 2, 2004 | 02:40 PM
  #4  
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So I have this 1978 F-150 Ford truck right?
yep

I'm told by many people that a c6 will bolt up to the 351m motor right?
C6s with a bigblock bellhousing will, small block and FE C6 won't

But I'm not told that it is nearly impossible to put a c6 transmission in this truck.
they came in them factory.

Last night My dad broke the bell housing and almost his hand trying to get the bell housing bolts tightened down.
something isn't right here. Is the torque converter in all the way?

We had to use about 3 extensions and three u joints on the ratchet only to have enough room to swing the ratchet one clik at a time.
on top of all that we had to plasma cut the original crossmember to the transmission to get the c6 to fit under the truck.
get a C6 crossmember, the 4 speed crossmember won't work.

I don't know about you guys but I'm almost sick of my truck and transmissions not fitting.
relax and calm down.

These trucks have serious problems with room under the truck to put in anything. dual tanks, transfer cases, C6 autos, and spare tires fit just fine.

I don't know how any body can do this with out a lift,the body taken off and about 4 other guys to help.
plus all the air tools ever made.
I just need to let off some steam.
Can any help me out? advice on an eaiser way to do this? (without costing me a arm and a leg )
Make sure you know what needs to be done and what involved before you start. Knowing what you're doing helps a lot and makes it easier(i'm NOT saying that you don't know what you're doing).

The truck originaly had a borg warner 4 spd with a granny low 1st gear.
And it has a 2 peice driveshaft which really makes this hard because with a c6 in the truck the 1st drive shaft will have to be about 3 in long it's like 83in from the tail shaft to the diff.
how about making it 3" long?

why did ford ever put a 2 piece drive shaft in these trucks? whats the point?
maybe they thought that the drive shaft was too long.

and can i change to a 1 piece leagaly?
yea.

I know its alot of questions but please try to help. thanks
 
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Old Jun 2, 2004 | 08:03 PM
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Hey thanks I'm cooled off now my dad and I thought about it and we came up with the same conclusion that the torq converter wasn't seted right or it was the wrong torq converter. So we will try it out i hope it works. Still puzzeled about the 2 piece drive shaft i think leagly they cannot be any longer than 74 or 75 in is this true? or does it only apply to missouri? I'll ask around. thanks for the advice I'm going into it a little more cautious this time. thanks again
 
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Old Jun 2, 2004 | 09:03 PM
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Both of my 77's have a 1 piece drive shaft. One has the original 302/C4 and the other one came with a 351M/C6 and now has a 460/C6 and also has a 1 piece driveshaft.
You should be able to get a 1 piece driveshaft from a junkyard and use it. Just remove the carrier bearing assembly. Just make sure it is out of a C6 truck. What is your C6 out of? Many cars have a longer tailshaft and different mount set-up. While your there pick up the correct crossmember.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2004 | 11:16 PM
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Torque convertors are the usual suspect.

I have seen the Bell-housing Casting snap right off from a wrong T/C.

Why because the early 429's crankshaft indent was different from later 460's.

When it fits properly it fits it doesn't need any forcing,it needs finesse'.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2004 | 01:17 AM
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There is a relation regarding driveshaft length, diameter, and rpm's. Driveshaft shops have nice charts that tell them what is possible. Otherwise there are all sorts of engineering calculations. You can read all about it in some of the pages I have linked in the links section of my Club FTE webpage.

As far as the transmission fit they should slide together easy as pie when everything is aligned properly. NEVER force them together.

As far as room under the truck have you checked your cab mounts? If they are rusted out the cab sags down leaving little room to work.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2004 | 04:33 AM
  #9  
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From: waco
A different cross member? Wait a minute...something isn't right. I have a 73 F 100 2 wheel drive. It started life as a 240 with a 3 speed and a 1 piece drive shaft. I went to a New process 4 speed with a 2 piece drive shaft. From there I went to a 302 with a c6 and 1 piece drive shaft. From there I went to a 390 with a new process 4 speed and 2 piece drive shaft. From there I went to a 460 with a c6 and 1 pice drive shaft. I never changed any cross members, but I sure changed a bunch of engine towers. As far as your drive shaft goes, the easiest way that I know to do it is this. Bolt the transmision to the engine. then bolt it down to the rear cross member. Take the yoke and slip it in to the rear of the transmision as far as it will go, then pull it back out about an inch and a half. Measure from the yoke to the third member. Take your tape to the wrecking yard and find a drive shaft the correct length. Install new universal joints and bolt her in. Thats the way I did all mine and never had a problem. I usualy pay about 20 to 25 dollars for a drive shaft. You will not need a cross member. Don't hesitate to holler if you have any more questions.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2004 | 09:59 AM
  #10  
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My short bed 77 has a one piece drive shaft. Not sure about the long beds.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2004 | 12:42 PM
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the cross member I had to cut is the one that the suspension is attached to the one closest to the engine. right under the transmission.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2004 | 06:01 PM
  #12  
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The one that keeps the frame from separating?? Not good!!
 
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Old Jun 3, 2004 | 07:57 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by 78custom
the cross member I had to cut is the one that the suspension is attached to the one closest to the engine. right under the transmission.
The crossmember that the suspension connects to is under the engine oil pan. I'll have to look but I don't think there is any cross member under the tranny. If you cut the crossmember that the suspension is attached to, you may have just totaled your truck. At the very least, you've just created a whale of a lot more work for yourself.

Come clean now. Is this a joke?
 
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Old Jun 5, 2004 | 08:50 AM
  #14  
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76 supercab. Thank goodness you asked about it being a joke, I almost took him serious. Of all the transmisions that have been in my truck, I never had to even touch that cross member. I couldn't imagine anyone cutting it. If I remember right, there are only like 4 or 6 bolts that hold it in. Right? If so, and if he did actualy cut it, it can be replaced. I probably have 2 or 3 out at the farm. Should be able to get one for cheap in any wrecking yard. Also if you did cut that cross member, you may want to get someone a little more experienced to give you a hand.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2004 | 11:45 AM
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I had a 78 F150 with a 351M and a c-6 and i took the transmission out myself and put it back in twice. There should be no problems with the installation. This puzzles me in your situation. When lining up the TQ, rotate it till the tooth lines up and it slides back in real nice and easy. When you do get the bellhousing to the motor the pins should line up with minimal finesse and just bolt her down. Hope all goes well for you
 
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