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360 Headers or not?

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Old Jun 5, 2004 | 03:43 PM
  #16  
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tankbuster71ford
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From: canby, oregon
Originally Posted by V10man
Puting headers on my 360 was the best thing I ever did. Hedmans are good. That price seems high for plane hedmans. Should be about $150. If you have rust issues then get the headers coated and use stainless bolts.
i am tiring to get some but i have a 71 f250 camper special and all the ones i look at wont fit camper specials what do u sugest?
 
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Old Jun 7, 2004 | 07:06 AM
  #17  
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I have never figured out why they have the camper special restriction. My only guess was because of the in frame fuel tank on the drivers side. You could try calling Hedman but I bet they won't know either being that that applacation is so old.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2004 | 01:26 AM
  #18  
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From: I live in Calif. near S.F
come on ?

My truck is a 75 F-250 K/C,C/S,3/4ton,running a mod.390,C-6,2x4 ,front and rear swaybars, with Headers. cheep ones,and hard getting on an off. tight fit.

TNT
 
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Old Jun 8, 2004 | 08:51 AM
  #19  
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From: canby, oregon
well i guse i am limited but oh well. thx
 
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Old Jun 8, 2004 | 12:08 PM
  #20  
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TNTsF-250
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From: I live in Calif. near S.F
Note when your doing the headers on our engines you"ll have to drop the starter out when you install your headers and put them both back in (with help)at the same time. you"ll found it to be sume what a pain in the @#%* , Have Fun TNT
 
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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 06:47 PM
  #21  
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754x4fordman
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From: Ohio
if you buy the cheapo headers from summit you can install them with the starter on the truck and also change the starter without removing the headers mine were 139.00 and i believe they are dyno max and they fit the camper special just make sure that they finished all the welds from the factory before installing them. lessons learned the hard way really suck......
 
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Old Jul 7, 2004 | 10:36 PM
  #22  
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From: Atlanta GA
FWIW: What I have seen some people do with the FE engines is ream out the threads and run 3/8 bolts to clamp the exhaust manifolds. Seems to work and if you get a nut rusted up all you have to do is either break it with an impact or cut it off.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 12:00 AM
  #23  
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Just to rule out the obvious with the leaking gaskets, are you using a torque wrench on the bolts and tightening them in the correct order, also are you using those cheap "paper" gaskets or the ones with copper seals.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2004 | 09:59 PM
  #24  
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It seems like every year or so I need to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets. The truck is pretty much a plow truck and only gets 1500 miles or so on her a year, but is always clean (chasis, engine, exterior) I had both exhaust manifolds plained and only use brand name gaskets. i have used Felpro, and I think they are called Mr Gasket (that I got from a professional engine builder) Now I have never tried the copper gaskets Fordflareside so please recomend the brand name. I torque the gaskets to spec following general torque proccedures. As I recall the torque spec is under 20 lbs and it appears the gaskets just seem to rot away. I am in the process of cleaning up the heads and the intake at this time and I really don't want to put the stock intakes on because I have this problem quite often and I am not sure what is causing it. The exhaust manifolds are in good shape but the studs that the exhauist pipe mounts onto are about shot and the doughnut sealing surface isn't the greatest.

The starter is pretty accessible since the heads and the exhaust is off the truck. I have also heard that headers are not applicable to this model truck with 4 wheel drive. is this true? Thanks for all your help
 
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