1st post - Advice needed please
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Joined: May 2004
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1st post - Advice needed please
Hello,
Here is my situation. I went to put on a set of Basani headers that I have had for a few years. 15 of the 16 exhaust manifold bolts came out easy. Guess what happens to #16, you got it, it snaps off flush to the head! OK now I have a problem. Of course it is the last bolt towards the rear on the passenger side. I know I need to drill it out or weld a nut on it and remove it. Here is my question. I have never removed FI, is it something I should tackle?
I have removed heads before but on simpler older vehicles. The Bronco is a 96 with FI, 351.
Any help or resources for info would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Brian
Here is my situation. I went to put on a set of Basani headers that I have had for a few years. 15 of the 16 exhaust manifold bolts came out easy. Guess what happens to #16, you got it, it snaps off flush to the head! OK now I have a problem. Of course it is the last bolt towards the rear on the passenger side. I know I need to drill it out or weld a nut on it and remove it. Here is my question. I have never removed FI, is it something I should tackle?
I have removed heads before but on simpler older vehicles. The Bronco is a 96 with FI, 351.
Any help or resources for info would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Brian
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 443
Likes: 1
From: Central Va.
Hey I always remove rf tire and pass plastic inner fender and do it without removing head or FI. Very common problem,esp. 97 and up 4.6&5.4 trucks. Be glad its not a 460 -88and up , used SS bolts!!!! Can,t hardly drill or blow out with torch!!!
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,399
Likes: 1
From: Corinth, TX
before you drill, try a set of "taps" (that's what I've always called them) that are reverse threaded... you hammer one into the headless bolt, then turn it with a pair of vise-grips. since the thread is reversed, it only tightens the grip on the bolt while you turn. It's usually very easy, and you save your threads. I had to do this on an intake manifold bolt once. worked like a charm. I'm pretty sure you can get these at most hardware stores, but it would help if i knew the correct name for them :-(
-Josh
-Josh
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: Orlando, FL
Go to a hardware store and get a helicoil kit. I think header bolts are 3/8". Just make sure you get or already have the right drill for the kit. It should say it on the package. Then drill, tap, and helicoil. With the fender gone you should enough room, otherwise get a 90* drill.
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
From: Austin
Been there done that. Many posts here covering this topic. Here is my advice.
Don't waste your time with the so called Easyout taps. They are anything but easy. Unless you have the pilot hole drilled perfectly centered in the broken bolt, the tap will bind up against the head and you will break the tap off and compound your problem.
I broke of two bolts flush with the heads and was able to drill the bolts out and then used a Dremel tool with a right angle adapter and a tungsten carbide bit. I think the bit is used to cut and elongate holes in stainless steel kithcen sinks and is alot like a reamer bit without the taper. I placed the bit inside of the hole drilled and shaved the bolt by going repeatedly around the hole. If you take your time and shave slowly you will eventually see the threads from the head begin to show. I was then able to chase the hole out with a 3/8 16 tap.
The left hand twist drill bits are always a good shot. As you are drilling maybe the pressure of the drilling action may back the bolt out and you can skip the whole dremel tool thing. Good luck and let us know what happens so we can learn from your experiences.
Don't waste your time with the so called Easyout taps. They are anything but easy. Unless you have the pilot hole drilled perfectly centered in the broken bolt, the tap will bind up against the head and you will break the tap off and compound your problem.
I broke of two bolts flush with the heads and was able to drill the bolts out and then used a Dremel tool with a right angle adapter and a tungsten carbide bit. I think the bit is used to cut and elongate holes in stainless steel kithcen sinks and is alot like a reamer bit without the taper. I placed the bit inside of the hole drilled and shaved the bolt by going repeatedly around the hole. If you take your time and shave slowly you will eventually see the threads from the head begin to show. I was then able to chase the hole out with a 3/8 16 tap.
The left hand twist drill bits are always a good shot. As you are drilling maybe the pressure of the drilling action may back the bolt out and you can skip the whole dremel tool thing. Good luck and let us know what happens so we can learn from your experiences.
