Hi, I just rebuilt my lifters and I was just wondering if I need to do any adjusting to the rocker shafts. I have rebuilt a 390 before and I just tightened the rocker shafts back down hand tight with no adjustments.
The engine is a 352 out of a 67 100 ranger. I have also done an overhaul on a 360 and just tightened them down hand tight. It worked fine every time. I do not have a book on FEs. What is the correct way to reinstall the rocker shaft assembleys? THANK YOU I kno they are non adjustable rockers, I just want to be safe.. peace

 

A turn or two at a time and torqued to 40-45 ftlbs.

 

THANKS fordeverpower!

 

Rebuilt the lifters? Why ? Hope you put them back in the holes they came from.

 

I hope he meant he replaced the lifetrs...Can you rebuild a lifter?

 

Thats a new one on me? Maybe he cleaned them out?

 

Yes, you can rebuild hydraulic lifters, used to be a common practice. But now a days, with the cost of lifters being so cheap, why bother? I didn't even think anybody still sold the internal parts separately anymore.

 

RapidRuss: I have Crane lifters on a 270/290 CJ juice cam and every morning one lifter would leak down and clack about 80% of cold starts. After 24,000 miles the roller rocker bushings needed replacing, this was a good time to disasemble and clean all 16 lifters. I did them one at a time and reinstalled in bores removed. Now I don't sound like a chebby on cold starts. The Crane lifters with a check ball are the best lifter that I've used so far. TRW and Edelbrock would pump up above 5,400 rpm,but not standard Crane lifters. I'm using standard 427 springs on LR heads with heavy stainless intake and exhaust valves. I had to chime in on "cleaning/rebuilding" is ok.

 

OK Beemer thats what I thought....And Baddad is right..years ago..I sdont know about a rebuild kit..But I do remember as being a kid my dad taking lifters apart and cleaning the bleeder holes and the cups and springs,check valves..re oiling them and puttin them back in..worked like a champ...but nows days ..its cheaper to buy new!

Russ

 

Hey RapidRuss; I only cleaned each lifter, no "rebuild kit" whatever that comprises of.
At 24,000 miles the cam and lifters were a match and I didn't want to mix new with old.
The lifter faces were as new, the oil stays clean at oil change time, 2,400-2,700 miles. I installed a 391 full sump oil pan, 11-13 quart, rear pickup with a center baffle, 2" 30 degree down angle flange all around and windage tray. With three magnets in the system and a 6 3/4" long filter the lubrication systems happy.The roller rockers are another story, if memorys correct they are FPP, they have two brass bushings 7/16" wide pressed into 1" wide rockers with 1/8" between for oil. They were worn egg shaped by + .015" then at 146,000 miles with a high volume pump I would fill the heads until the PVC valve pulled oil. I machined oillite bushings 1" long, reamed and made oil slots with the dremel. At 5,400 rpm the last thing I want is full valve covers and empty sump. At app 35,000 miles I snapped the end off a moly tube Milidon pump drive, the stub in the pump was full of fractures. A metalurgist at work found the stub way too brittle, Milidon screwed up. Been running a TRW drive that I replace every 25,000. Question, has anyone used ARP pump drives, they have quality products ? The love of
the FE. NUFF B S N 4 NOW, Carl................o&o>.......................... ..................

 

Well Carl...One of are FE Bro's is running one as we speak in his 446...I cant remember which one he sheared before but...He is running An ARP now..I have learned a hell of alot from some of Gtexs problems..My 428 .030 over has got an Melling HV57 oil pump in it and the ARP shaft...I dont have as yet the big rear sump pan.. havent found one? Now Greg got a good deal as did Randy on ebay for the nice oil pumps and big pans..Buy I swear...I think they bought the last two?? LOL-Russ

And thats one reason I went with the erson rockers..Needle bearings..No bushing type bearing....

 

Beemer,

looks like we share a lot of the same hardware. I spun a Milodon shaft as well. Mine broke at the distrubutor and left pieces in the bottom of the distributor. It twisted apart as you described. Now, mine may have had a reason. I think there were some pushrod cup parts that may have gone down into the pan. They could have jammed up th pump. Although, there were no signs of jamming or damage on teh pump after removal.

I replace the pump and used an ARP shaft.

I'm also running an FT pan. There are a couple of motor links in the middle of this page, if you want to see some of my hardware.
http://www.thedreyerfamily.com/69f25.../67project.htm