Need to / want to
Keep in mind that this is just my opinion, and I'm giving it using your description. Doesn't sound like there's a real 'must do this' need to do much of anything other than drive your truck.

If you only see oil around the heads of some bolts, and it's not flowing out, but just setting there, no biggie.

Are you having to and oil, if yes, how often and how much. You do check your oil level regularly don't you.

If you're interested in making vehicle the best it can be, and/or eliminate any oil loss at all, or if it's just a visual thing for you, you really want a pristine/clean engine suggest this-

From some of the things you've said, doesn't sound like you've a lot of experience/know how under the hood. That's fine, we all started somewhere. Go to local parts houses or major book stores, purchase a Chilton's and a Haynes repair manuals. They will have them specifically for your vehicle, books will cover a span of years, they should be between $12 and $14 each. These will help you become familiar with some parts/terms and basic how to's.
I suggest both cause either one doesn't always tell/describe particulars very well for all repairs. It's just handy to have both to reference back and forth sometimes.

Be aware- It does sound like your valve cover bolts MAY be loose (a bit) or the valve cover gaskets MAY be weak/letting oil by. But this is only a maybe, and if oil isn't doing a 'drool' down the sides of the heads or onto the intake, this is NOT something you need to be concerned about if you don't want to be.

DON'T- Get a socket and start tightening bolt heads down like a hurricane was over your shoulder. Some gaskets, esp valve cover, will get so compressed (and valve covers will bend) they'll break, then you'll have a real MUST replace them now situation.
In the repair manuals you'll find torque specs of any bolts that require 'tightening' to a specific degree, including valve cover gaskets, and some sets of bolts that should be tightened in a specific order.

Lots of details yes- That's part of what makes working on these fine old trucks so much fun. Don't be intimidated, dive in, get so greasy your own family won't know who you are, much less let you in the house.
On any certain repair you attempt, read all the details in both books before you begin, have a plan of attack. Know what tools you'll need before you get in the middle of a job and discover you can't continue for lack of a certain tool.

Post when you have questions/problems/opinions, enjoy your truck, be very safety minded, and be sure to have fun with your Ford.

 

wow, i appreciate all of that, thanks for telling me all of hta tstuff, it will really help and i will certainly go out and buy those books so i can get more know how on my truck, thanks for caring kenb and all others
quack

 

aiight i changed the plugs, got bosch platinum 2's w/ the 2 prong heads things, cleaned out my MAF, and now it has more power then it did w/ the old plugs, but it still doenst have the same power as a 4.0 should, it's still not quite as responsive as it was, i used to be able to squeal my tires pretty decently if i florred it off the stop sign, now, it's slower to get up there, any other ideas? now i have more time to fix this too, today was my last day of school for this year woo hoo thanks ahead

quack

 

Timing?
O2 Sensor?
Bosch Plat's may be better than what was in there, but maybe not the best possible. Do you remember what was in before all this started?

 

i will check out the o2 sensor, but i dont know how to check the timing.

the old plugs were called "splitfire sf10d" they have one head thing w/ two prong things lol , sorry that's the best description i cna give
quack

 

Next time you might try some good Motorcraft or even Autolite.

Timing is a pretty critical setting, might consider learning about it and getting a decent timing light. You can always pay to have it checked, but that cost would probably finance what you'd need to buy to do it yourself.

 

ohh, well i have two different timings guns! but there my brotehrs and i dont know how to check my timing. i thought you couldnt just my timing on my truck?? because it's efi?? it's 94 ranger 4.0 automatic with air and 4wd

 

One thing that I always do with routine maintenance is to thoroughly clean the throttle plate. This is part of your fuel injection system and can have considerable impact on idle and performance. Crud will build up on the walls of the air horn and the back side of the throttle plate. There are several threads in this forum with specific instructions on how to complete this relatively simple task. Be sure to use Air Intake Cleaner and do not use Carb/Choke cleaner as it can damage the coatings on these parts.

Basically, the process is to remove the intake air hose from the throttle body, hold the throttle wide open and spray the air intake cleaner into the air horn. Using a rag, gently wipe the residue from the inside the air horn and the throttle plate. It may take 2 - 3 applications to completely clean the surfaces. With the build-up removed you will get a better seal on your throttle plate for idling and improved air flow into the engine.

Good Luck. I also agree on using the Motorcraft Plugs. It DOES make a difference.

Russ

 

hey ranger russ, i dont know if i ahve any air intake cleaner, would wd40 work??? if not i will have to go buy some air intake cleaner

 

Seems to me that the WD-40 could cause more trouble than it would help - but I am not a chemist. Again, strongly recommend using Air Intake Cleaner. I have seen it for sale in the consumer parts stores and it is not expensive.

Also, you may need to clean the air horn and throttle plates again in a few days to really remove as much build up as is possible.

Good Luck


Russ

 

aiight then im glad i waited to clean the tb!!! i will defienetly have to get some air intake cleaner tomororw!! and i will clean that stuff again like you said thanks for the help man! peace
quack