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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

starter won't shut off

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Old May 29, 2004 | 08:51 AM
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nkuf250
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starter won't shut off

the starter on my 85 F250 wont shut off... ive replaced the selinoid 3 or four diffrent ones.. the iginition switch and the starter with no luck.. no one around here has a clue on what it is.. even with the "s" wire off the selinoid it still cranks over.. and this is with the key off help!!
 
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Old May 29, 2004 | 08:59 AM
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91f250460
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I know this sounds like I am being sarcastic, but have you made sure the solenoids are being put on correctly. As far as the cable from the battery to the correct terminal on the solenoid. And solenoid to starter cable, if not, if you hook those two cables up backwards it will weld the contacts together the first time you hit the key. I know, on my 86 f-150 the solenoid went bad and the parts store solenoid was the newer style. Mine was the tall solenoid with the terminals on the bottom and the new one was round looking. Well I bolted it to the fender and put the cables on the nearest terminal to their location and it was wrong, the mounting position of the new style solenoids is 180 degrees off from the position of my original solenoid.

T. Roberts
UFD Local 1147
 
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Old May 29, 2004 | 09:02 AM
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Hey thanks and no that wasnt sarcastic at all im glad for any help at this point... well im off to walk to the parts store haha
 
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Old May 29, 2004 | 08:26 PM
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From: Sarnia, Ontario, CANADA!
Originally Posted by 91f250460
I know this sounds like I am being sarcastic, but have you made sure the solenoids are being put on correctly. As far as the cable from the battery to the correct terminal on the solenoid. And solenoid to starter cable, if not, if you hook those two cables up backwards it will weld the contacts together the first time you hit the key. I know, on my 86 f-150 the solenoid went bad and the parts store solenoid was the newer style. Mine was the tall solenoid with the terminals on the bottom and the new one was round looking. Well I bolted it to the fender and put the cables on the nearest terminal to their location and it was wrong, the mounting position of the new style solenoids is 180 degrees off from the position of my original solenoid.

T. Roberts
UFD Local 1147
I did the EXACT same thing about a month ago. I never knew that! It was weird. Oh well, you live you learn!

-Matt
 
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Old May 29, 2004 | 10:35 PM
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I had the same thing a few months back.

It's the starter relay (sometimes called the Soleniod). It's next to the battery on the fender. Aproximately $15 from your local NAPA and about 10 minutes to replace.

What happens is the relay gets old and the contact actually "weld" themselves together when you hit the key. I tore open my old one to confirm, and sure enough the copper contacts where full of pits, as if it had been spot welded together. Getting a new one will solve the problem for another 5 or more years until it wears out too. Make sure to get one that has a "diode suppressed" sticker on it...this will help to prevent the welding up a bit by keeping the soleniod coil charged correctly (it will not "bounce" when the current drops).

Anyways, I hope that helps.

Dan Martin
1986 F350 Crewcab Dually, 460, C6.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 12:03 PM
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Had this same problem with my '86 F150....however, after having the same wiring config with a new "Wells" solenoid, it worked flawlessly with my stock starter. Then after months of this unit working, my starter acted the same as 'nkuf250's did. Key on, starter on.....key off, starter on.... Well, after a new starter, it stayed fixed with the same wiring config as before for a few days, then it starts this again (no pun) with the key off / starter on routine. So I'm confused on whether to buy a new relay / reverse the wiring thats worked fine for me for months / buy another new starter. Any input is appreciated by Honch.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 01:53 PM
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Get a good quality starter with a warrenty.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 03:28 PM
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Well, the starter I had bought from Advance Auto (Palladeium, if that's how it's spelled) was supposed to be their ''top brand.'' Anyway, it has a lifetime warranty, however, I don't want to have to yank that out every other month.

Note to All: If you do replace the starter on these earlier F-series, do yourself a favor and replace the stock 1/2" starter bolts with 14MM ones...more flat surface on the bolt that is less prone to stripping under higher torque. Took me 3 hours to work with the 2nd top bolt (stock 1/2") to get it out.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Honch777
Well, the starter I had bought from Advance Auto (Palladeium, if that's how it's spelled) was supposed to be their ''top brand.'' Anyway, it has a lifetime warranty, however, I don't want to have to yank that out every other month.

Note to All: If you do replace the starter on these earlier F-series, do yourself a favor and replace the stock 1/2" starter bolts with 14MM ones...more flat surface on the bolt that is less prone to stripping under higher torque. Took me 3 hours to work with the 2nd top bolt (stock 1/2") to get it out.
I used an extension. Took about 5 min.Took longer to get the cabel off.
My neighbor went through 7 Autozone starters in a month. Lifetime warrenty on all of them.
I got one from NAPA, cost more but it hasn't gone out yet.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 07:41 PM
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Are you sure that the problem doesn't lie in the steering column or the ignition key/switch. The key switch on this generation of Fords is prone to sticking and or malfunctioning. I've had two different Fords that have done similar things.
There are even a few that can be started without the Key if they become severely worn.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 08:11 PM
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Hm, yeah....I used to work at Autozone (that's why I didn't go there for the starter so I bought it at Advance Auto. Anyway, I disassembled the fender-mounted solenoid and all looked ok in there. So I'm down to the conclusion that it's either the starter or the ignition key-switch. Let me know what ya'll think & thanks.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2004 | 04:38 PM
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Ahh, problem solved.....turned out to be the Ignition Switch...the 'lil module that bolts onto the steering column, beneath the dash. After that was replaced, all was well.
 
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