Ignition Mysteries
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Ignition Mysteries
1992 e150 4.9l auto.
Van won't crank or start with key. Though the relay can be jumped and it starts no problem.
I have replaced the key/core assembly.
The ignition switch.
The starter relay.
The battery has been tested for voltage and load.
Starter and solenoid were bench tested, checked out fine.
When I do crank it into the start mode, everything electrical goes out -- dome light, dash power, stereo. etc. Back off and it comes back on, turn to crank and it all goes out again.
No starter solenoid chatter or anythng. Fuel pump comes on.
Seems like it has a massive short but I don't have a clue as to where.
Since it starts fine (with the relay jump) I can't imagine this could be the batt cables though they are original and were my original "suspect."
??
Van won't crank or start with key. Though the relay can be jumped and it starts no problem.
I have replaced the key/core assembly.
The ignition switch.
The starter relay.
The battery has been tested for voltage and load.
Starter and solenoid were bench tested, checked out fine.
When I do crank it into the start mode, everything electrical goes out -- dome light, dash power, stereo. etc. Back off and it comes back on, turn to crank and it all goes out again.
No starter solenoid chatter or anythng. Fuel pump comes on.
Seems like it has a massive short but I don't have a clue as to where.
Since it starts fine (with the relay jump) I can't imagine this could be the batt cables though they are original and were my original "suspect."
??
Last edited by Baja Dog; May 26, 2004 at 04:24 PM.
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From: Virginia
It's either the neutral safety switch mounted on the side of the tranny, or the one thing you did not replace in the column, the linkage from the keyswitch to the ignition switch. We have been having a rash of the linkage failures on this board lately, where the rod linkage has failed, giving enough travel to power everything, but not enough travel to push the ignition switch into the start position.
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Mystery Solved
Thanks Dave. I saw those posts and was amazed to see the rash of similar problems from other listers.
Turns out there was simply a bad connection to the relay. I think the ground wire didn't get a connection when I put the new relay in and thus, essentially, the new relay didn't work. After I put in the new relay I did the electrical portion of the ig switch (had done the lock core etc. already) and was like WTF?
After posting I decided I must have a shorting wire that went to the relay so I started chasing them down. Found that the "press on" fitting for the ground of the relay wasn't pressed on at all.
It was a brain bender because that oversight recreated the exact same symptoms of a failed relay.
Thanks.
twb
Turns out there was simply a bad connection to the relay. I think the ground wire didn't get a connection when I put the new relay in and thus, essentially, the new relay didn't work. After I put in the new relay I did the electrical portion of the ig switch (had done the lock core etc. already) and was like WTF?
After posting I decided I must have a shorting wire that went to the relay so I started chasing them down. Found that the "press on" fitting for the ground of the relay wasn't pressed on at all.
It was a brain bender because that oversight recreated the exact same symptoms of a failed relay.
Thanks.
twb
