I would like to convert my '64 F250 to a HEI system. Can anyone please tell me which system works best for this old trucks' 292 Y block? I read some where the Pertronics system had problems if the voltage dropped below a certain level. My truck is still 100% stock If that makes any difference. Thanks in advance for your responce.

 

Pertronix is the ticket. There is no real issue if your battery and charging system is up to par. Since you are not using 12 volts at the coil, a voltage drop below that means a problem elsewhere.

 

Excellent! That is what I was hoping to hear. Thank you

 

A lot of Pertronics confusion has to do with their own poor instructions causeing people to wire them up with the wire to the coil. The stock coil likes about 8v, and the wire to the coil from the ignition switch has a resistor (or part of the wire is a resistor wire, usually pink and under the dash).

Now, the Ignitor I and II will initially work with low voltage, but they stop working eventually. And since its not exactly an off the shelf item, you are sitting dead.

Pertronix has some convoluted instructions about running a new 12v lead back to the Ignitor unit, but not the coil etc etc. IMHO, the solution is to get the Flamethrower coil with the Ingnitor and do both at the same time. The FT coil has a removable sticker -- you pull it off, it looks stock, which I for one value. The FT coil likes 12v

Then you reach up under your dash, disconnect (NOT CUT) the igntition wire where there is a bullet connector about 4 inches back of the switch, run a nice new 12 g. wire back to the "+" terminal of the new FT coil. You hook the Ignitor hot lead (red on mine) (the one that Pertronix says goes to 12v source) to the "+" terminal of the coil as well. The black wire goes to the neg lead of the coil. Installed in the dizzy, the Ignitor looks almost perfectly stock except for the one extra red wire coming over from the coil. And your new 12v lead from up front.

Now, if you value the ultimate in stock look, you could bypass the resistor wire inside, under the dash, and use the existing, original wire to bring the 12v back to the Ignitor and coil. But the stock wire is like 16 or 18 guage. Pertronix calls for 12. Maybe would be OK, but never can tell.

As for Ignitor I versus II -- the one BIG reason to go with the Ignitor II is that it has an overload protector. The original Ignitor I did not like the switch to be left on with the engine not running. Burned them up. The II does not have that problem. Also has an adjusted dwell for shorter spark at higher RPM. Good characteristic, but no so critical. But the overload protectrion -- that is key IMHO.

Good luck

 

What advantage is there to switching to HEI from a good quality points stock setup?

(I have points, but if this setup is better I might aim for it later on)

 

Thanks so much for taking so much time and giving me such detailed instructions. I am sure that I can now get the job done right.

 

Mouse, Are you kidding?!! Go with HEI and you'll never set points again!! I'm using the Ford Duraspack setup and have never touched it since it was installed back in '97. How many times have you fooled with the points in the last 7 years? I think it runs much better as well.

 

The main advantage for me is that I don't have to crawl into the engine compartment to work on the points. Another reason is that it is supposed to give you an increase in performance by supplying a hotter spark that causes better combustion. I am not an expert by a long shot, all I know about it is what I have read in Pertronix advertisements or on this great forum.

 

if it = better MPG's, I'll aim for it.

 

Higher energy ignition is better (HEI is a bowtie thing, and, yes you can use the HEI module in a Ford, but not all electronic ingition setups are HEI). Period. A points setup, done right, maintained right, with new plugs, rotors, caps now and then, will be just about as good. But never better than electronic setup from a performance and fuel economy standpoint.

Your choices are legion. Highest end of all are complete new distributors from Mallory, Performancedistributors.com, Accel, etc. etc. They will get you better control over your advance as well. The plain old Ford Duraspark II (see tech section here) is a fine swap as well, and can be done so as to use the GM HEI module (which you can buy at Walmart for $9.99 from what I hear.), or the Ford one (not better, honestly, but genuine Ford.)

The problem really with all swaps is that they are not stock. They are better, when they work for sure. And usually they work. Old points fans know that points, while requiring frequent maintainence for optimal performance, are pretty indestructible. If you know a little something about points, it is very unlikely that your truck will ever leave you dead. So, depends on your point of view. Suffice to say that modern vehicles have answered the question definitively.

As to the best choice, that is a matter of taste. Pertronix gets you the closest to stock look. Duraspark can be very cheap if you can deal with junkyarding. After those two, there are lots of choices, with various features. Skys the limit. The MSD fully computerized high end "brains" can be hooked up to your lap top so as to play with dwell settings and advance curves. Cool. Depends on your taste.

For me, I like the 65 look under my hood. I went Pertronix for the look (and not too expensive either). Lots of posts will substantiate the general perception that performance and fuel efficiency will both improve, whatever you go with.

 

You can use the E-coils from the newer TFI ignition setups also. They use 12V, are cheap to free, and they throw a good spark.

The Ford (use Motorcaraft only) Duraspark II modules are very good because they have a spark retard function for easier starting when hot. Mount the DS-II module 1/4" off the fender so cooling air can get under it and you will never have problems with it. You don't even have to pay big $$ for a module either since you can find them in scrap yards. I find Motorcraft modules only and then test them at the parts store for free. I have pulled several and have not found a bad unit yet. I wouldn't give you a nickel for any other brand DS module tho.

Electronic ignition beats points all to hell in my opinion. I have installed hundreds, maybe even a thousand sets of points in vehicles and I will take the electronics any day.

Good luck!

 

Mouse,
2 other advantages of better grade, or a more complex breakerless ignition systems are spark voltage variability & micro timing adjustment for better ignition, & increased spark plug longevity, upwards to 100,000 miles in fact.

I do not remember just which engine you have but I think it is an FE. FoMoCo was making Dura Spark Ignition before they quit making FE's in76. There are FE Duraspark set ups around. In fact I believe the F series U -Hauls with the 361 CDI FE had them.

Even if you can't find one, ford Dist Housings are so typically Common internally It's a piece of cake to upgrade an earlier housing by installing later internal parts to convert it to breakerless technology. ALso I'd recommend using the Blue Banded Duraspark, and the later E coil from a TFI Module System Torque 1st suggests. It's the Catsazz.
I don't even have points in my lawn mowers they're all CDI systems now.

A friend of mine has a chopped and sectioned 55 Chevy 2Dr sedan which is all FOMoCo except for the 55 Chevy Body. It is powered by a 385series 460.
He made spacer plate-adapters so he could run Big Block Brand X style Valve Covers, and he got a Billet Distribuitpr that is HEI & uses a Brand X Cap too. If you look at it it's a GM Distribuitor. In fact 95 out of 100 people sewar they are looking at a 454 Bowtie engine (NOT). He loves to point out the front mounted distribuitor & if that doesn't convince them, he points out a FoMoCo Script Logo on back of upper timing cover lip near the By-Pass hose.

Anyway my point is, when going on a road trip he takes out the HEI & drops in a FoMoCo Breakerless Duraspark System that engine came with OEM. He like myself gets great mileage, he has gotten 22+mpg with it in that car. My best to date is 17+ mpg, but that's in my slick.

FBp

 

Please, where (what year/vehicles) can I find one of these E-coils. I plan on spending some quality time on Friday in my favorite yard (beats sitting at a desk eating lunch).

--Mike

 

I have a 390 in my 65 FBp...

the advantage to ponts is (to me) even if they foul up, they dont leave you stranded, and if you have that $7 extra set of condenser and points, 5 minutes and your back on the road.

when an electric goes, your a doorstop. (but I guess you could just as easy carry an extra in your tookkit)

as crappy as it was running before it stopped this time (I repaired it, another thread) it was getting about 12 mpg. with the new dist points condenser plugs and wires, i hope it will be better still.
but if electric will boost me from 12 or 13 to 17mpg...or more, I am writing santa a letter.

I assume its as easy as replacing the coil and the distributor unit, right?

what are we talking cost here for a better than average setup, total swapout?
(about)

 

About $125 for Pertronix Ignitor II and FT coil. More or less for Duraspark, depending on your sources. Much more for new dizzy etc from Mallory, Davis etc.