Well for those that don't know I conducted a scientific experiment Saturday to see if MSD ignitions can be used as aquariums. The good news is they can. The bad news is they don't work too well after you remove the fish.

If one were to build a rig that could FORD deep water, let's just say 4 -5 feet, what needs to be waterproofed/modified other than the intake obviously and the distrubutor/gnition or ECU in the case of fuel injection? Provided there is no fan running and you don't give a rip about your CD player is there anything else that you need to take care of before hitting the water?

All I could think of was vent hoses for the axles and transfer case. Not sure if an auto tranny just vents via the filler tube or what. And I suppose you have to keep the oil filler from getting submersed.

I'm not asking this because I plan to drive in water of course, just because I'm curious.

 

You know, about the only thing thats real tough to waterproof is the alt. About the best thing I know you can do with that is go with a high mount and get the type with the fan that has a soild shield to keep crap out. Dizzy's are easy to seal with silicone, you just have to remember to vent the cap otherwise noxious fumes build up which cause corrosion. For your brainbox, you can either mount it in cab, mount it in tupperware, or get something like the msd offroad unit thats completly potted in expoxy. For your intake, a snorkle, whether run in cab or just high, like all your diff/tranny vents.

 

Just buy this Ivan and you won't even have to worry about waterproofing!
http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/w...category=39415

 

Linky no worky...

 

Ahh sorry! Here you go you seen this one before you'll know what I'm talking about.
http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/w...category=39415

 

Water proof the starter (especially on an automatic) and run its vent hose higher and provide a drain hole on the bottom of the transmission housing access cover. On most older Fords it might be wise to relocate the fuse box higher. Seal the plates over the access holes for the body mounts and widen the drain holes at the bottom so water can drain out easily. Drain hole for your A/C usually sits pretty low in the fender, might want to make sure it is clean and free.

 

Hmm, I thought my cap was vented and I've never had a problem with moisture in it. Now that you mention this I have to wonder. I do have a little corrosion in there and it's only 6-8 months old.

Rebocardo, is there anything particular that needs to be sealed up on the starter to waterproof it? I never even thought about this and so far haven't had any problems with it. I need to drill a couple holes in the access cover on the bellhousing so water can drain out.

 

watch your gas filler neck and connections to your gas tank/fuel pump. i have filled my tank with water and didn't know it! i stalled in the middle of a lake and it stalled me out.

-cutts-

 

It really depends on the starter and where it is located. On my 390 it sits so high I have not bothered since I have a manual and the water would have to be 24+ inches before it is a problem (read my fan balde would hit first).

Some starters have access holes and vent holes in the case towards the rear of the windings (which points to the front of the truck) or you have an opening in the bellhousing through which you can see the starter. Which means you can get small stuff like branches in there that jam the starter's small gear.

One thing I just thought of, put a plastic shield around your starter relay. Once, I drove through some deep stuff (my BII started to float) and it stalled out. Wet leaves had splashed up into the engine compartment and shorted out the battery side of the relay to the fender and competely drained/shorted my battery and short term nuked my electric system when the water exited and left the leaves behind. Luckily, there were a few other guys around to help me push it out of the water so I could fix it.

On my BII I use to glop blue RTV around the hub o-rings before putting the wheel on to prevent water from getting it. On my Dana 44 I run blue RTV between the hub and lock. I have not tested it yet to see if it makes a difference since my kingpin seals are probably the worse water entry point and they are not greasable (yet).


.

 

I think you guys really need to invest into one of these, if you are planning for more than 4' of water...








































sorry - couldn't refuse!

 

naw I don't want that one it is a fast attack if I am getting one of those I want a boomer

 

well, to each is own

 

Yeah but I hear the stock axles on those things suck and if I want to run 49's I'll have to upgrade to Rockwells. It's more hassle than I'm ready for.

There's nothing like plowing through water up to your hood and watching the look on people's faces. I've done plenty of deep stuff before and had plenty of trouble with my intake but this is the first time it's cost me ignition problems. What's starting to scare me now is the water lever was very close to my valve covers which makes me wonder if I'd suck it into my crankcase when the breather cap went under. I guess this is why they make lift kits.

 

Don't confuse people Ivan. Body lifts won't help you here only suspension lifts. Hey another plus for a suspension lift over the body lift!

 

ivanribic,

I've taken my truck into 3' deep water several times. The first time it stalled, so I spent a lot of time waterproofing everything I could. I RTV'd the distrubutor cap, the air cleaner to the carb and the metal solenoid cover on the starter. Putting some RTV, or maybe some dielectric grease on the plug wires is a good idea, too.

I also ran all my axle & t-case breathers into the cab up under the dash. You could do that with your valve cover breathers, too. Once in a while I can smell the axles, but not too often. If you don't care for the smell, you can keep 'em outside. I'm considering moving mine into the hood scoop for that reason.

Now I just have to move my fan & rad to the bed and I'll be all set.

Kevin K.