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Hi all, I got a new toy....66 1/2 ton, FE with regular standard dash, no extra electrical. With everything off, The battery gets drained totally.....fast too I might add. Even with headlight sw. removed it drains....if something is grounding out somewhere would that cause this or would it be that lovely IVR???? When I first got the beast, with light sw. installed, dash lights were constantly on. I got one of those cheap repro wiring diagram books which helps a bit but I am still stumped. Would a botched trailer wiring/tail light harness cause this???? I also am in need of assistance as to what the other 2 terminals go to on the wiper sw(2spd w/washers) One I am pretty sure is the washer feed, but which termianal and what is the other one to? My 65 is different from 66 as to switch setup and different washer setup in dash.
Maybe this will help a little, disconnect your negative battery cable from battery, hook a test light to the cable end (clip part) and touch the post on the battery (with the other end of test light) if you have a drain in the wiring harness the light will light up on the test light. Find some way to keep it connected to post ( usually they are sharpe and you can poke them in the post) then one by one pull the fuses from your fuse panel and put them back as you go when the light goes out the promblem is in that area of the harness. Yes I know there are not alot of fuses it may or may not help you works well with the newer models, just a friendly thought that might help thou..Good luck..........
Besides the other good advice you have already about V-Reg & determining draw through a test light, I would tell you use a digital VOAM instead of test light because it tells you the Volts or Amps of the draw.
You will have to disconnect a battery lead to put a meter (VOAM) in line,
then use test light inside, at fuse panel with you. Lift fuse to open a circuit & "bridge" with a test light, if light lights that circuit has current present.
Some other culprits can be a windshield wiper motor park circuit gone bad, or ignition switch deteriorating, or circuit/ wire crossed, shorted or wired incorrectly. The power source to a brake light switch and horn relay are 2 more examples of leads which remain "hot", like WSW Park circuit does when everything else is off.
Here's a site with some great schematics which you may want to take time to download for yourself. They're actually for 64 F series, but there's very little difference. This site includes a schem'tc w/ both Alt & Gen diagrams. The Files are HUGE & they do up & down load slowly. Some are not relevant. And remember ALL F SERIES are basically the same per production run. I will hesitate to say year because in 60's many Companies titled trux when sold, not when built, thus cross overs & interchange/similarities I mentioned. I use these Schem's on 61-66 Fseries Fords. Having said all that, here is the site. I think this should work for you.
check your E-mail for the address the cyberguards here corrupt the link & it won't open the site.
FBp
Last edited by FordBoypete; May 23, 2004 at 08:35 AM.
LOL, thx all....yeah, the wiper is a question as the switch was in pieces, put same one back in(can never have too many spares) The plug in connector is on ok, but I am a wondering about the 2 terminals...the wipers dont park right....they stop when sw. turned off.....As to the drain, when the cable is connected w/o test stuff hooked up(normal) I do see a tiny spark as the circuit is being completed....did that at night. Ign. switch replaced with yet another spare as I wasnt sure about the one it had in it to begin with.