rear main seal
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Omaha, NE
rear main seal
I have an 84 F250 with a 460. The engine was leaking oil from just about everywhere so I pulled it and put it on an engine stand. I want to replace the rear main seal but I don't know what is involved. I am hoping someone who has done it before can tell me the basics. For example, does the crank have to come out or can I get to it by just removing the oil pan?
thanks
thanks
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,404
Likes: 3
From: Cleveland, WI USA
I replaced the rear main on my 78 w/460 and it's not that bad. The toughest part (for most) is getting the oil pan off. Mine comes off easily, but in some trucks you have to remove the motor mount bolts and jack up the engine.
Once the pan is off, remove the rear bearing cap and loosen all the rest so the crank has some play in it. The half that goes in the cap is a no-brainer, but getting the one out of the block can sometimes be a bear. I used a small nail set or center punch and tapped on the metal wire that runs through the center of the seal. That was enough to rotate it enough to get a pliers on the other end and rotate it right out.
Oil up the new one and rotate it back in. Just be careful not to shave rubber off the seal on the sharp edge of the block. Also, don't rotate it all the way in - leave about 1/8" sticking out so there's some overlap. Remember to apply RTV to the cap where it meets the block.
My seal came with instruction and a diagram showing where the RTV should go.
Good luck.
Oh yeah. Be thankful you don't have the old rope-type seal. I spent 3 hours getting one out of the block.
Kevin K.
Once the pan is off, remove the rear bearing cap and loosen all the rest so the crank has some play in it. The half that goes in the cap is a no-brainer, but getting the one out of the block can sometimes be a bear. I used a small nail set or center punch and tapped on the metal wire that runs through the center of the seal. That was enough to rotate it enough to get a pliers on the other end and rotate it right out.
Oil up the new one and rotate it back in. Just be careful not to shave rubber off the seal on the sharp edge of the block. Also, don't rotate it all the way in - leave about 1/8" sticking out so there's some overlap. Remember to apply RTV to the cap where it meets the block.
My seal came with instruction and a diagram showing where the RTV should go.
Good luck.
Oh yeah. Be thankful you don't have the old rope-type seal. I spent 3 hours getting one out of the block.
Kevin K.
