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The problem I had with the black pipe.............
The joints/connections. Kept getting leaks. The plumber that laid the stuff sniffed too much glue, I think. Finally gave up and layed all new.
Two years ago I built a seperate garage about 50 feet from my house. I did the following;
*Because the house was wired for a 220v stove and dryer...and we use gas for those, I had 30amp & 50amp 220v circuits that weren't being used. I extended the 50amp (with the correct-sized wire) to my new garage. Before my slab was poured, I trenched to the house and burried 1 1/2" grey plastic conduit, with the garage-end comming up inside the wall...just inside of the studs. When they poured the floor, they poured around the pipe, making it permanent. I was then able to fish the wire through the pipe, and make the connection in my basement. What I wound up with was a 50amp "main" at the load center in the house and a 50amp "sub panel" in the garage. Works great!
*I also ran a second 1 1/2" pipe to carry my phone line and TV cable.
*Because I couldn't have a floor drain without having an EPA certified high-$ system...long story, I didn't run water to the garage. However...I did run that black plastic pipe to a frost-proof hydrant near the garage. I'm now in the process of connecting a PVC line from the hydrant to a slop sink in the garage. Kind of a Rube Goldberg set-up, but it'll work.
If I had it to do over again, I'd bury an air line back to the house...but it's too late now.
*When I heat the garage, I'll use propane...with it's own tank.
The majority of the black poly pipe you will see at your local home store is irrigation line-meant for constant flow situations-It is not rated for no flow with pressure-the walls on it are not uniform and I've seen it bulge and burst when put in a no flow with pressure situation (ie water supply that holds static pressure in a no flow situation). in an irrigation system the only time you have pressurized flow on it is when the zone valves open according to your clock-the heads are like a leak-you've got flow but no opportunity for pressure to really build. Unless it is a poly pipe that is rated for pressure I would definatly use a rigid schedule 40 pvc pipe even if a cost increase is mandated
IF YOU CANT AFFORD TO DO IT RIGHT_HOW CAN YOU AFFORD TO RE-DO IT
bronc95, always be sure the product you purchase will be used for its intended purpose. Polyethelene supply pipe is far more flexible than PVC. You can buy it in huge rolls, thus eliminatiing potential leakage problems with having solvent cement joints every 10-20 feet. There are types of poly that can be used for your distribution systems also, both hot and cold(PEX). Black poly supply pipe comes with a rating of 160 psi for the PE 3406 and 200 psi for the PE 3408. For those living in parts of the country that see below freezing in the winter, we know how well the PVC will explode. I have had much better luck with exposed black poly than PVC in freezing conditions being somewhat resistant to cracking when froze.
I agree, our code for water to dwellings here is 160 pipe and not the 100. At that distance I would to tend to want wire upsized one size, 2 copper would be fine for 100A or 1 alum, and if you are feeding from your house you must run 4 conductor if there are any other interconnecting metal pathways, gas line or phones, ( I run 4 no matter what ) the ground can be smaller, number 8 copper for 100A
The use of Aluminum Service Conductors are approved for use by the NEC and used extensivly by both new construction and public utitlity companies. The point behind a photo of corroded wires is??? An improper installation with nicked insulation and a unsealed environment could lead to corrosion on either copper or aluminum.
Last edited by 94F150-408; May 25, 2004 at 01:34 AM.
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