2000 X, V10, 4X4, Limited.
Has anyone changed out their sparkplugs yet? Do the fuel rails have to be removed, and if so, how hard are they to remove? Any special tools needed? What is a safe sparkplug torque to use to hopefully prevent a sparkplug blowout? I have 96K miles on my X and I am a little reluctant to change them because of the blowout issue. I would appreciate any help on this issue.

Thanks,
Robert

 

I just changed out my plugs, TWICE... in a month. Do yourself a favor and
avoid the Bosch Platinum plugs. I posted a thread in the V-10 forum about it. In a nutshell the Bosch plugs are crap. I recommend the Auto-lite Double Platinum. What a difference! Seems the Bosch plug resistance is all wrong for the V-10. After I installed the Bosch plugs I got a ticking sound, possibly a strain on the coil pack, resulting in arching somewhere (ford master mechanic friend explained this to me). The tick is gone now that I installed Auto-lites.

As for the job, its not that bad. It will take you some time. Give yourself about an hour and a half. I got up and walked away a few times to simmer down. The passenger side is a bear! The last 2 toward the firewall are the worst, but you do not need to remove the fuel rail. I removed the injector connector harnesses one a a time, made it go somewhat smoother. There are a few hoses that you will need to tie up out of your way on the passenger side but thats it. The driver's side is a piece of cake. Everthing is right there. You will need to remove the intake snorkle though.

Hope this helps.

Oh, one other thing, the ford master mechanic I know said the plug gap is VERY important on the V-10 regardless of brand plug. He recommend keeping it as close to .054 as you can.

 

One more thing again.
When I pulled out the old plugs, I had my shop vac handy and vacuumed out any dirt and crap down in the plug hole. Removing any debris from the plug hole is supposed to help alot with the blown plug issue. I have read that dirt and crud being trapped between the plug thread and head is the recipe for the disaster but no-one can prove it, but hey, every little bit helps I guess.

You will notice if they are the original ford plugs, the thread pattern on them is only half way down on the plug when compared with any new plug, be-it the new ford or auto-lite plug (ford changed the plug a few years ago to include the thread down the entire bottom of the plug). I think this plug thread design had something to do with them blowing out. The Auto-lite plugs in my opinion, have a "beefier" thread design. I am comparing it to the Bosch, I tossed the original ford plugs. They seem thicker. Maybe its just me.

No special tools where needed. Just a few socket extensions.

The mechanic I know, said he doesnt put a torque wrench on the plugs. Its impossible to do it anyway on most of them, just because of where they are. He suggested in snugging them down good. Don't overtighten. These are aluminum heads. He added that automakers have a torque spec for everything in the vehicle, everything.

Also I read not to complete the change-out while the engine is warm. Do it cold. Seems to be an issue with regard to the aluminum head threads while removing the plug, they may become weakened.

I think I am done rambling along. I just did this over the weekend, I feel you pain.

 

Hello Robert:
Don't forget to use anti-seize compound on the threads. It's especially important with alumimum heads.

 

oh.. boy i chaged the spark plug on ford expenditon ! what a pain !!!! i must have finish 2 pack of marbloro light that day ! GEEZ my advice let the dealership or your honest mechaince do it.. 1. peace of mind !! 2. if blow up or messed the motor ! they have to honor it with their service labor replacment whatever !!!!



if you're pretty good with the trucks.. go ahead..good luck..let me know how it goes.


john

 

A big thanks to V10 X, bajarider, and blueexpend for providing valuable information regarding my post.

 

Sounds like it might be worth the $88 the dealer charges.