points
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,489
Likes: 5
From: Valley Center, CA
Well, I am no expert by any means, but I would just check the basics. Do you have 12 volts to the solenoid when the key is on? Do you have 6 volts to the lead on the coil when the key is on? Do you have 12 volts to the other coil post during the start cycle? Double check the point gap. Is the rubbing end of the points on the tip of the crown on the dist. shaft? Is the condensor hooked up correctly? Do you have the right rotor to match the right cap? It's gotta be something simple laike that. Good luck, John 
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 433
Likes: 4
From: Breckenridge, Minn.
When the key is on and you have 7.15 volts means that the ballast resistor is working. What is your voltage at the distributor when the ignition key it in the start position? It should be around 11 volt while cranking over. If you don't have any voltage you lost it at the solenoid. I have to admit that I am better at trouble shooting the bowtie variety of electrical. My son's project cars gave me plenty of experience there. It is possible that the points and distributor is working it just isn't getting voltage in the starting mode. Good Luck.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 433
Likes: 4
From: Breckenridge, Minn.
Put the positive lead to the positive side of the coil and the negative to ground. When you crank over the engine the voltage should be around 11 volts and when the engine is running in the on position it should be close to 8 volts. If you don't read anything in the cranking mode you need to find the break in the system and make the repair. Another thing you could do is take a jumper wire from the positive side of the solenoid to the positive side of the coil and turn the engine over. If it fires you will definitely know there is something wrong with the staring circuit. You will have to pull the wire off to get the engine to shut off though because just hot wired the engine. Good luck.
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