Engine won't Crank now.
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Engine won't Crank now.
My buddy gave me an 89 F250 with the 300 I6.Said the alternator was dead,ran it home on the battery.Put new battery in and it would not crank.Replaced ignition switch,solenoid,eec and fuel pump relays.Still no crank.It will crank with screwdriver across solenoid,but will not run(not getting fuel?)I did not replace the alternator,I didn't think it had anything to do with the cranking.I am stumped.I tried a few different solenoids,relays,etc. so i don't think i got a bad part.I smelled something burnt near the relays but can't find a problem.Need help
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From: Virginia
If the fusible links are good, then it could be either:
There is something wrong with the neutral start switch on the clutch or on the side of the auto tranny, or
There is something wrong with the actuator rod in the steering column that pushes the ignition switch you replaced.
There is something wrong with the neutral start switch on the clutch or on the side of the auto tranny, or
There is something wrong with the actuator rod in the steering column that pushes the ignition switch you replaced.
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Thanks for the replies,the actuator rod seems to be moving freely when i drop the column.I really don't think i needed to change the switch.I see some fusible links near the battery,are there others near the driver side fender well? This was the spot i smelled something burnt.I test lighted the system with the neutral safety switch jumpered,and the circuit/switch was good.One thing that stumps me,i put a test probe on the battery and to the small wire(blue/red) going to the solenoid.While turning the key,on positive I got 12.49,on negative i got 6.9-7.0. This may be normal or i may not be testing correctly.I need to get this mule running,any help would be appreciated!
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From: Virginia
Alright, you have a tester. Always leave the negative of the tester on the battery negative, or a bare metal spot on the engine block. Going from the blue/red to the positive of the battery is meaningless.
So, you got 6.9-7.0 volts with the black lead of the tester on the negative, and the positive lead on the blue/red. That doesn't seem like enough. With the negative of the tester on the negative of the battery(always leave it there) place the positive of the tester on the large lug on the relay that goes to the battery positive, spring the switch over, and see what voltage you get.
So, you got 6.9-7.0 volts with the black lead of the tester on the negative, and the positive lead on the blue/red. That doesn't seem like enough. With the negative of the tester on the negative of the battery(always leave it there) place the positive of the tester on the large lug on the relay that goes to the battery positive, spring the switch over, and see what voltage you get.
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Did what you said,neg. on neg. pos. on pos. of solenoid and i got between 11.98 to 12.14.From what it sounds like,i have enough power to crank this thing,what am i missing here?Thanks p.s. I noticed the negative cable is really corroded and rubbed the frame,could this be part of the problem? Would this affect fuel delivery also? These may be stupid questions but I am stumped.
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From: Virginia
Yes, the ground cable could be the problem. Take the negative of the meter and put it on a bare place on the engine block somewhere. Then put the positive of the tester back on the solenoid large lug, and measure the voltage while you try to crank it. If the voltage is a lot lower than when you had the negative of the tester directly on the battery, then the ground cable will be your problem.
