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How to remove rotor discs?

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Old Mar 8, 2009 | 11:29 PM
  #31  
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bfornesi
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use a swazall and cut through rotor down to the hub, use air chisel or a regular one and put in cut and a few pounds and rotor will split like a nut shell. If not put cut on opposite side and do again that should do it takes about 10 minutes.
bruce
 
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 10:29 AM
  #32  
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alloro
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A breaker bar with a long pipe on it.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2009 | 06:39 PM
  #33  
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RAllenF150
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F-150 Front Rotor Removal

Just takes a lot of PB Blaster, and pounding. But the best thing is to have your 4 yr old Granddaughter come out with her little plastic Tool Box and and say Paw Paw I will help you. Then proceed to bang on it with her little plastic hammer. When a Touch Of Heaven enters the picture then there's no trouble at all.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2009 | 07:00 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by RAllenF150
But the best thing is to have your 4 yr old Granddaughter come out with her little plastic Tool Box and and say Paw Paw I will help you.
That's just cruel of you to say this without having a link to a video for us to also see this darling little scene.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2009 | 08:10 PM
  #35  
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Exclamation Remove Rotors from 4X4 2000 Expedition

First things first. I had a hard time believing my rotors were knock off. I lived down south for 10 years, but moved to Chicago (lots of salt this winter, and kept it in 4WD for several days at a time due to snow).

ALL the rust was on the lip that is parallel to the studs. No rust on the inner face that fits flush against the hub. After 6 hours of pounding with a 4 lbs sledge, overnite soak with PB Bl. penetrating oil and heating with MAPP gas torch for 30 minutes, I ended up cutting the front part of the braking surface (just the outer most layer) down to the hub (be careful not to notch it) and 3 inches down into the front between studs. Again, 4 lbs sledge with a flat chisel cracked the top half, 1/4 pulled away from the hub. I had to turn 180 degrees and cut on the opposite side, then splitting the second cut with chisel broke it loose.

I used a 4.5 inch grinder with a 4 inch cutting disc. No pressure, just let the weight of the grinder pull the disc through. Also, I modified the spark guard to be between me and the disc. It is very easy to get these into a bind and have hot disc chips flying everywhere (including you) so BE CAREFUL.

This was the worst brake job I have performed to date. Over three days, 8 hours to get the rotor off, 45 mins to reassemble... and that was one side.

Can't emphasize enough that the rust is located on the lip of the rotor. See computer drawing below.

| |
| |---/ Rust here all the way around (dashes were required because the editor removed blank space)
| |--/
| |-v
| |__
|____| |
|____| |----- studs stick through
|____| |
|____| |----- no rust behind studs, oh and these knock out very easily... don't hit them
|____| |
|____| |-----
|____| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
 
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Old Jul 26, 2009 | 09:29 PM
  #36  
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[quote=dstep0;7762126] After 6 hours of pounding with a 4 lbs sledge,
This was the worst brake job I have performed to date. Over three days, 8 hours to get the rotor off, 45 mins to reassemble... and that was one side.[quote]


You must not have been hitting the rotors hard enough. Big hammer, slam the outside braking surface of the rotor a few times as hard as you can and the rotor will break into pieces and come right off. Less than 5 minutes per side.
 
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