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I was adjusting the fan belt on a front end loader with a 24 volt system. When loosening the bolts my hand contacted a remote master battery switch. Just newly wed, I was wearing my wedding band. Gold sure does make a great conductor! It was a big shock and a burning sensation. You wouldn't believe how fast the ring was off my finger and bouncing across the shop floor. I was lucky and only burnt my finger mildly and had an instant blister all the way around my finger. Since then I have heard stories of people getting shocked from a ring and the finger getting burnt to the bone, requiring aputation of the finger. The ring also had two dimples burnt in it from contacting the hot connection and a ground. Needless to say, I don't wear my wedding ring anymore and have a permenant scar from the blister around the finger. It is a good idea to remove jewelery when working with electrical equipment, an even better idea to disconnect ALL power sources before beginning work.
I'd love to have a second battery under the hood of my V10, but the mount for the 2nd battery on the diesel models doesn't look like it would fit since I have the K&N FIPK over there. I have seen one Superduty that put 2 Optimas side by side with a larger battery tray located where the battery is now. I have an Optima now and I'd probably use another as the 2nd battery with an isolator between them. Anybody else have a good place to stuff a 2nd battery?
I was adjusting the fan belt on a front end loader with a 24 volt system. When loosening the bolts my hand contacted a remote master battery switch. Just newly wed, I was wearing my wedding band. Gold sure does make a great conductor! It was a big shock and a burning sensation. You wouldn't believe how fast the ring was off my finger and bouncing across the shop floor. I was lucky and only burnt my finger mildly and had an instant blister all the way around my finger. Since then I have heard stories of people getting shocked from a ring and the finger getting burnt to the bone, requiring aputation of the finger. The ring also had two dimples burnt in it from contacting the hot connection and a ground. Needless to say, I don't wear my wedding ring anymore and have a permenant scar from the blister around the finger. It is a good idea to remove jewelery when working with electrical equipment, an even better idea to disconnect ALL power sources before beginning work.
Your lucky I know a guy that lost his finger like that. Now you have band that does not come off..
I'm the only person that wants a dual battery setup for the V10?
Unless you have a large electrical load like a big winch, amps, lots of aux. lights, or in the PSD's case high cranking amp requirements it really isn't needed.
We tailgate in the fall with a TV, DirecTV satellite receiver, and a box fan usually for the hot games in August and September. I have a 200 watt inverter that will run everything, but I have to either crank the engine periodically or keep it running and divert the exhaust with a dryer vent hose. Keeping the engine running essentially makes the V10 a less than fuel efficient generator and without an electric fan I keep a pretty close eye on the temperature gauge. I also keep the hood up to allow the engine to stay as cool as possible.
Ideally, I'd like to have a dual battery setup with an isolator that would let me let me draw power from the 2nd battery and not have to worry about it. Some isolators allow for 3 batteries and depending on my power requirements that may be the way to go. Other than the one truck I've seen with the dual Optimas on the right side under the hood I haven't found any way to mount a 2nd battery. I was hoping someone had attached a sealed battery box to the frame or something similar. I've been kicking around this idea since before last football season and still haven't decided the best way to go.
A small quiet <1000 watt generator is my other option (Honda and Troy Bilt have ones I like), but I like the idea of being able to plug something in while I am driving if I wanted. Can't exactly run a generator in the car.
A small quiet <1000 watt generator is my other option (Honda and Troy Bilt have ones I like), but I like the idea of being able to plug something in while I am driving if I wanted. Can't exactly run a generator in the car.
Power while driving shouldn't be a problem, pop in a fused power port/inverter where you need it. As to the generator, I have a small (5KW) that fits in the bed under my cover that cost about $500 at Grainger. Fired it up once, nice and quiet, but the power is too dirty for the computer equipment I wanted to run with it - the signal conditioners are going to be too bulky and expensive. If you wanna make a deal on it, send me an email.
As to battery location I would imagine you could mount them to the frame in front of the tank, a lot of guys put small propane systems or remote filters there. The other side is out because of the exhaust. If you wanted to get real slick you could put 4 of the 3 cell (6V) Optimas behind the seat, vented/wired through the floor in a case.
Don't waste your money on an Optima. I had two Optima Yellow tops in my camper, they didn't last as long as I'd like. So I decided it was time to get educated about batteries. The absolute top of the line battery setup for running stuff like a TV, sat dish, etc, is two Trojan T-105 6 volt batteries wired up to give you 12 volts. They are slightly bigger than a normal sized 12 volt battery. They have almost 4 times the capacity of an Optima Yellow Top. Both 6 volt batteries cost less than one Optima. If you go this route you would be better off putting them in the bed of your truck. Each one weighs 55 pounds.
While I can't speak specifically to your camper application, I can speak about my own personal experience with Optima. Here in the desert heat, most lifetime lead acid batteries are good for 12-18 months. I replaced one in my 1995 Toyota in 1996 with an Optima and it is still going strong - it can sit for 6 months and fire the first time, everytime. I figure the Optima has paid itself over about four times.
As to the application above, if you're limited in space you might just try using the 6V batteries and series-parallel wiring to get the capacity you need. A lot smaller profile and easier to get in smaller places. My .02
Want to put that 2nd battery in a 'gas' Excursion, where the 2nd battery sits in the PSD Excursion? Go check into the battery tray that is included as part of the AIS filter system that Ford has for the 7.3's.
I have a PSD Ex and changed out the factory air filter system with the new AIS kit just last week. It's a "drop-in" kit, removing that huge one-piece plastic filter housing and battery tray that comes on the 7.3 PSDs, and replacing it with a metal battery tray that fits the same location and a plastic air filter housing that also fits the same spot as before. Only differences are that the battery tray is metal, the tray and housing are two pieces rather than one, and the new air filter is that huge blue filter used in the Abhrams tanks (a 300% increase in filter area).
I suspect that there is a unique Ford part number on that metal battery tray. (But I'm not going to pull mine out tonight to find it.) I bet the parts guy at your local dealer can find it, or maybe someone at one of the online Ford Parts stores would have the number. Then you'd probably have to special order the metal battery tray, but it's a "drop in" since the mounting holes are in the fender and wheelwell shield. (That is if Ford hasn't put something else in that corner of the 'gas' Excursions.)
If you cannot find the number anywhere, write me and I'll take the time to pull the battery and find the number on the tray. (silentlysoaring@***.net)
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