Odd rear Window Prob.
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Elder User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 575
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From: Orlando, FL
Odd rear Window Prob.
I know that it has been discused many times but I could not find the awnser I was looking for.
My rear window got stuck down on sunday and after reading the Haynes manual and trrying to DRILL holes and grind rivets I came here and found a much easier way of getting the window out. Guess I should just come here to begin with. But on to the problem.
I took the motor out and connected it directly to the battery and it works, I also checked voltage at the wires that hook up to the moter and have 12 volts. But when I hook up the motor it doesn't work. What could happen to the wires that it wouldn't work. Is it possible that the wires are just bad and there is too mush resistance in them and it is not getting 30 amps? I would really appreciate help with this because I want to take the top off this weekend.
My rear window got stuck down on sunday and after reading the Haynes manual and trrying to DRILL holes and grind rivets I came here and found a much easier way of getting the window out. Guess I should just come here to begin with. But on to the problem.
I took the motor out and connected it directly to the battery and it works, I also checked voltage at the wires that hook up to the moter and have 12 volts. But when I hook up the motor it doesn't work. What could happen to the wires that it wouldn't work. Is it possible that the wires are just bad and there is too mush resistance in them and it is not getting 30 amps? I would really appreciate help with this because I want to take the top off this weekend.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,406
Likes: 52
From: Wheatland, Mo
The motor works off of a switched voltage at the terminals. For the up , you will get 12V at one side and ground at the other. For the down it is just the opposite. Make sure that in one switch position, you are getting 12V from one wire from the harness, and the 12V from the other wire. Or 12V+ in one position and 12V- in the other. If you find that you are not getting it in one of the positions, start tracing back the wire that is missing the voltage. A good place to check is the harness that runs along the drivers side of the tailgate. I have had to splice together a wire in there more than once until I replaced that section of harness with a more flexible wire. You can remove the grommet that goes into the fender and un-plug the harness from there and then disconnect from the key switch so you can check for continuity. I unwrapped the wires and found one broken clean through. But before you do all that, there is a safety switch inside the tailgate that is a known problem point. It is located near the key switch inside the tailgate. If it feels the tailgate isn't closed far enough, then it will not allow you to close the window. Mine acts up once in awhile and I have to slam the tailgate closed and it works fine again for about a year. The switch has been known to go out and some people have just bypassed it. This is a fairly easy fix but you just have to be sure no one hits the dash switch when the tailgate is down.
Good luck and post back if you need anything else.
Good luck and post back if you need anything else.
New User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
I am wondering if anyone has ever tried to convert the rear window from power to Manual. I would like to put a manual crank on the inside of the tailgate for emergency use. Has this been done?
I have an 82 bronco that I use for hunting and it seems that the power to the window goes out at the worst times. Like when I am trying to load a deer in the back.
I have an 82 bronco that I use for hunting and it seems that the power to the window goes out at the worst times. Like when I am trying to load a deer in the back.
