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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Wiring Haress

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Old May 3, 2004 | 05:11 PM
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1952FORD
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Wiring Haress

What wiring harness is the best to use in a 52. I will be replacing all of the wiring
The truck now has a replacment wiring harness in it. I am runing a 289 and will either use a Ford duraspark or a Pertronic kit in a new stock distributor. Not sure what kind of guages I will be using.
 
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Old May 3, 2004 | 05:40 PM
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Ron Francis makes a nice kit, it's what I'm using. Really easy to install.

Painless makes kits as well, I guess it's up to you which one you want?
 
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Old May 3, 2004 | 06:46 PM
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IMHO it kind of depends on how much money you've got to spend and what kind of a truck you're building. Ron Francis and Painless are two of the best and I've seen them installed and look really nice. For about half the money I've also seen (and installed myself) EZ wiring harnesses that also work well and can also look just fine. With the EZ you have to do more thinking and it's definitely a "one size fits all cut to fit" kind of deal where with the Ron Francis and other high end harnesses you get more custom fit and attention to detail along with an easier installation.

My truck is destined to be a "daily driver" that will (hopefully) look good enough to turn the occaisional head at the local cruise nights - I wouldn't expect it to get much notice at a national show and I'm definitely on a low-bucks kind of build. I bought an "Its a snap" harness for my truck after talking to the vendor - local (well Daytona) guys and knowledgeable about things hot rod and truck - but I can't give you an update as it's not installed yet. It looks to be every bit as good a quality as the EZ I put in a friends truck and that one works just fine.

My $1.98 worth

Leaks
 
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Old May 3, 2004 | 08:43 PM
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Talked to a vendor at a swap meet this past weekend about EZ wire. He put one of their harnesses in a 49 F1. according to him it was not difficult to do and made a nice looking install. Mounted fuse block under dash. I may go that route myself plus prie seems to be raesonable.

Terry
 
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Old May 3, 2004 | 08:59 PM
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I've made my own for my 52' F1 & will be doing the same for my 50' F2, altho I have & am going pretty much OEM except the electrical & the addition of buss fuses under the dash.

I have also made one for a friend that has a 48' F1 but he has a 351C & C6 w/ Duraspark.

Each wiring harness cost me about $80.00 to make & an additional $20.00 for the fuse blocks w/ about a day of patience/work...

So far most people think that my harness in mine or my buddies truck was done professionally, & that is all that matters...
 
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Old May 4, 2004 | 12:50 PM
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Razortec:

Provide some more info on your harnesses. What you use, where you get it, any special tools? Do you use the old one for a pattern?

I would like to replace parts of mine, but not the whole thing. Any info will be appreciated. Thanks!
 
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Old May 4, 2004 | 04:52 PM
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Razortec
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Originally Posted by SteV8e
Razortec:

Provide some more info on your harnesses. What you use, where you get it, any special tools? Do you use the old one for a pattern?

I would like to replace parts of mine, but not the whole thing. Any info will be appreciated. Thanks!
I used mostly 14Ga wire in 6 different colors, keeping the green wire for a ground thru out, I also used 10Ga wire for the generator armature lead to the regulator & then thru the gauge & back out to the battery, Headlight wiring was done with 12Ga wire in 3 different colors all the way from the fuse block, Relay, Dimmer & to the lights themselves.

I mostly used the patern from the orriginal harness when it came to the under hood & under neath wiring "except that I used 4 wires to the tail lights instead of just 2" but when I got to under the dash I made my own patern since I was adding a few relays & a fuse block for it..

My source was Napa Auto Parts for the wire, connectors "which were protected spade type" Fuse block, relays, resistors, & light recepticles.

I soldered all my connections instead of just crimping them because years down the road you never know what a crimp may wind up doing but a solid soldered connection is forever..

The thing to remember is to have patience when you try this for the first time because it can get confusing if you try to hurry but if you do, do it by hand you will know that every circuit is right & be proud of the accomplishment...
 
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