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hey im looking to replace the turbo on my 95 f350 and of course everything is rusted solid any ideas for the easiest way to take it off, I have it off the road for awhile and i have been soaking everything with pb blaster .one guy told me he pulled the tranny out to get at the bolts to heat them ,i dont wanna have to do that
Have been soaking the bolts for a week with p b blaster and trans fluid , all of the bolts are very rusted and dint want to twist them off and im leerie of heating them with torch unless i have too,changing turbo because it has oil in the charge tube . Michael
I soaked mine with wd-40. Actually I only had to soak the exhaust up pipe collector clamp to get that off. Everything else came off real easy, except for access to them. You should only have to remove the 4 bolts on top of the turbo, as well as the v-band clamps on the inlet and exhaust pipes. Have you removed everything else so far, like the 5-way y-pipe, intercooler pipes, etc...?
Sorry, I just saw yours is a 95. They are different than mine (2000) but for some reason, penetrating oil with some lubricant properties seems to work a little better than others. At least that's only MHO.
Nightmoves,
How much oil is in the tube? The breather allows oil through the vent into the intake tube, nature of the beast. Just don't want to see you repair something that's not broken. If you can't remove the bolts at the collector, you might try removing the up-pipes at the exhaust manifolds and then remove the exhaust side turbo housing and then pull them up and out as a unit. You could also do the same by removing the entire turbo pedestal. Sometimes, you will find that the up-pipes will come out of the collector without loosening the bolts, because the sealing rings have worn out.
ok Ive got the turbo off and have the mounting plate off. what is the solenoid for in the mounting plate ? what maintainance do i have to do to the mtg plate before installing new turbo?
The solenoid is the EBPV actuator. As for maintenance, make sure the o-ring recesses are clean and free of debris and the oil passages are clean. Don't soak the pedestal in cleaner, so as not to damage the solenoid. Use brake cleaner or similar fluid to clean. If you have not done so already, you might consider changing the seals in the ends of the fuel rail supply lines, as the pedestal must be removed for this.
Last edited by fourstroke; May 16, 2004 at 08:28 PM.
Reason: additional information
It closes the exhaust backpressure valve during cold starts to help the engine warm up faster. Many people disable it or convert it into an engine brake. I left mine alone because I'm lazy, but eventually I'll convert it also.
what is the best way to disable the exhaust valve, should the solenoid be unplugged or left alone should the butterfly be taken out of the adapter ? is there a way of keeping the oil out of the servo so as not to leak eventually?
I have not taken one apart, so I can't say for sure. I know you can leave it installed, and just disconnect the rod and the wires. Check another current thread on a similar pedestal issue.