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Old May 1, 2004 | 08:23 AM
  #1  
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Front spring removal

16 years of rust in salty minnesota. Need help

What tool is best used to remove the lower spring mount retainer. I cannot get a six point socket between the spring and I am afraid that using a big crescent wrench will destroy the nut.

Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks
 
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Old May 1, 2004 | 03:12 PM
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theres a hold at the top of the coil spring, just drop the socket through there, thats what i did
 
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Old May 3, 2004 | 07:06 AM
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I uses a porter power to seperate the coils and slipped a socket in and used a breaker bar to get it loose.
 
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Old May 3, 2004 | 11:46 AM
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It is a pain.. but get a deep well socket, 15 inches of extention bars and a long breaker bar.. it will work
 
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Old May 3, 2004 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by gman88
16 years of rust in salty minnesota. Need help

What tool is best used to remove the lower spring mount retainer. I cannot get a six point socket between the spring and I am afraid that using a big crescent wrench will destroy the nut.

Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks
As mentioned above with dropping the socket down from the top of the spring perch, you can slip the breaker bar in between the spring instead of using that many extensions. You'll have the gap between the coil once the frame is supported with a jackstand and then the axle arm lowered. Use plenty of rust penetrate. Hope this will help.

Warr
 
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Old May 3, 2004 | 06:37 PM
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Thanks for all the advice. I dropped a socket through the hole in the top of the spring mount and used a breaker bar with lots of PB Blaster. It broke loose and I was able to remove the bolt. Still a pain to do relocating the socket with every 1/4 turn, however I saved 20.00 by not buying a 1 1/8" offset box end wrench.

Now I need to know what to torque this bolt to when spring is replaced. It seems to be just there to hold the spring from coming off the seat.
 
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Old May 3, 2004 | 07:17 PM
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Lower Spring Retainer to Radius Arm --> 70-100 Ft-lbs

This is according my 1983 Ford Service Manual
 
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Old May 8, 2004 | 12:38 PM
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got the spring off...but now how do i put the new one in? do i need to compress the spring first?
 
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Old May 8, 2004 | 02:37 PM
  #9  
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During spring installation / removal you should have the Truck frame on jack stands and the axle on a jack. The shocks should both be removed, then lower the jack all the way un-compressing the spring. You sometimes have to "SIT" on the spindle to allow enough room to install the new spring. If even after "SITTING" you cannot get the spring installed then you might have the wrong springs..

Hope this helps
 
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Old May 9, 2004 | 09:55 AM
  #10  
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I just finished replacing axle pivot bushings and radius arm bushings. I removed the front spring and axle to accomplish this task.

The front spring required a little more effort to re install after the stiffer radius arm bushings. You have to force the axle arm down while the frame is supported. Even then I had to pound the top of the spring in (big rubber mallet) to get it under the top mount. You should be able to do this without compressing the spring if you are using standard height springs. Make certain to remove shocks, I also had the caliper and sway bar removed for this process.

Good Luck
 
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Old May 9, 2004 | 12:33 PM
  #11  
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thanks guys...i ended up having to stand on the arms...after changing the springs and shocks...my passenger side still sags a big...went from one whole inch lower than the driver side to half an inch...what else can the problem be?
 
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Old May 9, 2004 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by gman88
I just finished replacing axle pivot bushings and radius arm bushings. I removed the front spring and axle to accomplish this task.
Gman,

How did you install the new Axle pivot Bushings? Do the axle shafts slide out of the center section? I need to replace mine and was just wondering..

Thanks!
 
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Old May 10, 2004 | 12:30 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Steve_Uzi
Gman,

How did you install the new Axle pivot Bushings? Do the axle shafts slide out of the center section? I need to replace mine and was just wondering..

Thanks!
Steve,

I am not sure I understand your question are you talking about the axle beams or shafts? It was quite a lengthy process. The axle shaft on the drivers side will pull out of the pumpkin after the spindle is removed and the passenger side can be removed from the slip yoke (stub shaft stays in pumpkin and is retained with C-clip). I removed everything and dropped both halves of the TTB from the vehicle since I was replacing everything anyways. I used Energy Suspension bushings / shells.

I got most of my information by searching posts from the fine folks on this forum. If you have a specific question I will be happy to answer.
 
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Old May 10, 2004 | 02:41 PM
  #14  
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My question was specifically about installing the new Axle Pivot bushings into the Axle. Did you press them in? hammer them in or what? I am replacing mine with stock (moog) bushings.
 
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Old May 10, 2004 | 05:21 PM
  #15  
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I removed the old ones by drilling out the rubber between the sleeve and collar using a 5/16" bit. Drill as many holes as you can in the rubber material (about 5-8). The bushing then presses out easily (I used the 3 in 1 ball joint tool and some flat washers). If your Moog bushings come without the outer shell I hear that they easily press in with silicone lubricant (I am making the assumption that the Moog parts are polyurethane, not rubber. The Energy Suspension parts came with a three part inner bushing, sleeve, and outer shells that had to be inserted after removing the old shell. I pressed the shell in using the ball joint press and the bushings pressed in by hand with supplied lubricant. I took lots of photos however I do not know how to post them.
 
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